GIGI - There is a saying that I use when describing my experience with surfing.
“Surfing makes you stay grateful, stay present and stay humble.”
Grateful - The weather conditions are not always conducive for generating the waves you see in the magazines. So, life as a surfer involves a TON of observing and waiting. The times when we are blessed with a perfect swell, tide times and offshore winds, the stoke is very real! Even the slightest shift in this delicate balance can change the game completely.
Present - Even though I find solace in the middle of the ocean on my board, I must always stay vigilant of every little thing going on around me [other surfers, direction of the current, marine life, wind shifts, etc]. But, instead of this feeling like a burden or task, I see it as an opportunity to be in tune with what God is doing around me. Without fail, I’m in awe of how much life exists around us at every moment when we are still and observe.
Humble - Regardless of how long you’ve been doing anything in life, there is always opportunity to learn and grow. I call surfing a “masterless” sport because there are so many variables that change with every session. Sure you have your professionals
that are extremely proficient at
reading the conditions, catching waves and doing tricks. But, even the most decorated surfer has dog days because Mother Ocean can be highly unpredictable. And, if you don’t stay humble you can get much more than your feelings hurt:)
Photo credit Alfred Gainer