aggression when it comes to my surfing experience. However, I know for a fact that that is not true for other surfers of color. I’ve heard many stories and witnessed firsthand the covert and overt racism that transcends land and into the water. Spray painting on the side of cars “Go home N*##er!” Purposely ganging up on surfers in the water and cutting them off so they can’t catch waves without risking injury. The level of entitlement people can bring to a resource that no one owns is unreal.
ML – “Other surfers” was one of the things that kept me from loving surfing. I never could get over the fear that I was in someone’s way or that I would get run over by some local speeding by yelling at me to get out of the water. When I realized that the best part for me was indeed finally getting out of the water, I knew it might not be for me. Why do you love it so much?
GIGI – I’m not gonna lie, surfing is not for everyone. It can be scary as SHIT! But, if it has ever piqued your interest, even just a little, try it! Type A personalities (which I am definitely one) don’t do well initially because it is a sport & lifestyle of patience and surrender. However, when you learn to consistently approach the ocean with a humble mindset, surfing is the most beautiful experience that can reinvent your perspective on life.
Surfing is a privilege, challenge and blessing all in one. Very few people take advantage of the privilege of being in the ocean. To experience its grace, power and beauty is unlike any other feeling on this planet. When I’m in it, it gives me a tremendous feeling of peace and tranquility.
Even on those very large and rough days, Mother Ocean challenges my innate desire to be in control. The ocean (like life) cannot be contained or controlled. Surfing constantly reminds me that the most beautiful rides happen when you surrender to what you’re blessed with at that exact moment because everything is TRULY working in your favor if you pay attention.
The greatest lesson I’ve learned from surfing happens every single time I get in the water. It reminds me to stay present and enjoy the beauty that is around me...and, more importantly, respect the beauty that is in me.
ML –Learning to breathe and surrender rather than react and panic are skills I’ve learned in yoga that help in life in general. It sounds like surfing is that way for you.
Photo credit Alfred Gainer