February 2020 Issue Apparel February 2020 issue | Page 77

FEATURE However, accepting the challenge meant undergoing a sea of changes in production; and many companies resisted the idea. For a global company, ensuring a fully transparent supply chain meant that it needed to ban all toxic chemicals at every step of the way, across the production line. This was primarily a hindrance at the dyeing stage as choosing natural, eco- friendly options for dyeing is arduous and incurs heavy expenses too. However, consumers responded to the detox challenge more readily and positively, which further compelled the industry to change its ways of production to sit more in sync with the environment. HOPEFUL BEGINNINGS Over 70 fashion brands and suppliers committed themselves to Greenpeace’s detox movement by 2020, having pledged to remove chemicals from their supply chains. It is noteworthy as they account for a considerable chunk of global textile production. However, while dissecting the 100 per cent toxic-free promise, it is important to understand that in apparel production, the maximum amount of toxins is used in dyeing. That’s where brands need to flush out toxins from the process in order to drive the point of sustainability home. On a global level, the textile industry is known A LONGER LIST OF BRANDS AND COMPANIES IS REDUCING ITS DEPENDENCE ON SYNTHETIC COLOURANTS. to be the second-most polluting in the world. Synthetic dyes, research has proven, contribute to pollution more than any other processes. Non-biodegradable, petroleum-based colourants that are used to dye textiles have been found to be the most toxic of all elements. Added to this, during the process of dyeing, large proportions of these colourants and fixing agents are released into the surrounding ecosystem. As the Greenpeace campaign was working towards eradicating toxins, in a similar vein, just last year, China brought down shutters on companies producing synthetic textile dyes. This reforming step has instilled more consciousness into the global industry and a longer list of brands and companies is reducing its dependence on synthetic colourants. With more reforms that are APPAREL I February 2020 I 69