Explore Mallorca Magazine May/June 2013 | Page 14

SPOTLIGHT ON ARTÀ

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allorca has had a long and colourful history and nowhere on the island is this more beautifully illustrated than in the remote municipality of Artà. Tucked away in the far northeast corner, the region is probably the island’s least visited and a true blessing for those wanting to explore a Mallorca of yesteryear. For among the high mountain peaks, the undeveloped sweeping beaches, and the historic towns, tradition, folklore and community thrive.

Craggy mountains inhabited by belltoting sheep, soaring eagles and protected wildlife reach into the blue sky...
Artà town
The namesake of the municipality is the historic town of Artà, located in a great valley at the bottom of the Llevant mountain range. On approaching the town from any direction, the first thing to come into view is the turreted fortress walls which surround the hilltop church of Sant Salvador, presiding over the jumble of ancient, brown-roofed buildings below. This medieval complex is an important pilgrimage destination and a haven of tranquillity. Just below the fortress is the equally magnificent Gothic parish church of the Transfiguration of Christ. Together they create a romantic picture in the landscape straight from an illustrated history book. Artà itself oozes Mallorcan charm, both in its appearance as well as its attitude. Narrow roads lead haphazardly past imposing stone houses through the heart of the town where craftsmen and women display their centuries-old skills along the tree-lined pedestrian Carrer de Ciutat. Famous for its basketry tradition, all manner of intricately woven wares hang from shop doorways. It is a town immensely proud of its heritage, as any local will joyfully explain. Vivid descriptions are regaled of fiery local fiestas, weekly markets, conquests and battles and even a surprising selection of sports personalities.

©Jay Beiler | Dreamstime.com

Into the wild

In the far north eastern corner of the municipality, craggy mountains inhabited by bell-toting sheep, soaring eagles and protected wildlife reach into the blue sky before tumbling down to meet the shore. Driving through the fertile farmland of the valleys and up into the Llevant National Park, the tiny stonewalled country roads pass idyllic scenes of rolling fields, pine forests, blossoming fruit groves, Bronze Age remains and remote religious hermitages. The park itself is a walkers’ delight. Dusty footpaths criss-cross the green hills and valleys, where tufts of the abundant fan palm used in Artà’s traditional basketry sway in the breeze. Artà’s coastline is pocketed with beaches and bays that have successfully managed to avoid the limelight. They are undeveloped and rugged. Many are decorated with long-abandoned watchtowers, once used to scour the seas for approaching pirates. The quiet seaside settlement of La Colònia de San Pere, with its sandy beaches and laid-back atmosphere, receives the lion’s share of the region’s visitors, but even this is understated and low-key. Off-the-beaten-path bays such as Cala Torta (see p40) might lack facilities or even road access, but the rocky coastline, turquoise seas and tranquillity make them worth the adventure.

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