. Wills wrote “We did not leave camp this morning until half-past seven, having
delayed for the purpose of getting the camels’ shoes on - a matter in which we were eminently
unsuccessful”. Finally, on Tuesday 22 January the men faced a steep descent from the Selwyn
Range to the vast open plains of the Gulf of Carpentaria. They followed a small creek as it
broadened to a river all the way to their final camp 119. Travelling through many torrential
storms over the next few weeks as the wet season monsoon took effect. The heavy rain meant
the ground was so boggy ”that the camels could scarcely be got along” and they were forced
to leave one of the camels behind when he got stuck in the creek bed near camp 108. Sunday
10 February, Burke decided to leave the five camels at Camp 119 with King and Gray and push
on with three days provisions loaded on Billy the horse, who also became bogged several
times. They struck off due North…..and reached “an open plain, covered with water up to
one’s ankles. The soil here was a stiff clay, and the surface very uneven, so that between the
tufts of grass one was frequently knee deep in water”. There were “ hundreds of wild geese,
plover and pelicans” on the salt water marsh but the water “was too brackish to be drinkable”.
Plodding slowly and deliberately through the salty mud in hot humid conditions would have
been exhausting, with the prospect of full moon and rising tides a further two days away.
Burke wrote in his diary “it would be well to say that we reached the sea, but we could not
obtain a view of the open ocean, although made every endeavour to do so”.
They were still 20kms from the ocean, when at some point on Monday 11 February 1861 they
halted, ankle-deep in mud, knee deep in salt water, sunburnt and thirsty, and turned around to
face the long walk back to Melbourne.
At the site of camp 119, the most northern camp of the VEE, we viewed the remaining blazed
trees that King had marked - originally 15 - and the now famous blazed Walker tree. Walker was
the leader of the Victorian Relief Expedition searching for Burke and marked a tree with his initials and the date on 12 Jan 1862. Although the Burke and Wills Historical Society has attempted to minimise the effects of introduced weeds at the site, and erosion concerns, this zone between land and river has changed significantly since Burke and Wills were here in 1861. Some projections indicate that by as early 2060 the blazed trees at the camp will be obliterated due to the silting up of the landscape caused by flooding and erosion. It is quite evident when
comparing early photos from this century to present day, how much higher the ground has
encroached on the original blaze marks. It is sad to think that in time to come there may be no
indication of their physical journey and the trials they endured as a testament to their
determination.
As previously mentioned we often thought about their difficult journey and the tragic return as we journeyed through this amazing country, and could only imagine how they travelled. It was easy for us from the comfort of our air-conditioned 4WD cars, carrying fridges with cold drinks plenty of food, extra water and fuel, with help, if needed at the end of a satellite phone. It is amazing to think it was their determination and strength of character that kept them going - I must admit several times I did wonder how and what kept them pressing forward and whether I would have the strength to do the same and not turn back.
I give grateful acknowledgement to the book written by Dave Phoenix “Following Burke and Wills Across Australia: a touring guide” published by CSIRO where the material relating directly to The VEE and their journey has come from. We used this book as a guide for our journey and read many sections as we travelled through the area. It is highly recommended reading generally and especially if you want to travel this route.
It was a marvellous trip and thanks to all the companions on the way for making it so, especially
to Doug and Laurie as trip leaders for organising everything and keeping us safe.
I have included Ralph’s little ditty revealing special insights into all the characters on our journey.
Trip report by Sheena Rose 1006
pajeroclub.com.au
Vol 35 No.2 - Mar/Apr 2018
47