PRESERVATION HALL Neighbourhood ........ St James Address ........ 655 Empress St . Phone ............ 204-783-2386 Entrées .................... $ 17- $ 42
Tristan Foucault is inarguably one of Winnipeg ’ s pre-eminent chefs . He ’ s helmed three Wow ! Hospitalityowned restaurant kitchens , and has become nearly legendary for his nose to tail approach to cooking . His obsession with the science of curing and spicing meats has earned his charcuterie widespread recognition among Winnipeg ’ s culinary set . So it ’ s no surprise that the city ’ s gourmands were thrilled when Tristan and wife Melanie joined an elite segment of eateries where chef owners are in their kitchens cooking every day , following their passion .
Preservation Hall Eatery and Wine Bar , opened this summer , combines superb culinary skills with charming and exuberant service , making it our choice for best new restaurant of 2020 .
The menu offers popular favourites , like steak frites , beef Bourguignon , and meatloaf , but does not shy away from precious delicacies either . Traditional first course dishes like tartare ( steak and salmon ) contrast melt-in-yourmouth beef and fish with piquant shallots . Slightly sour apple , spicy horseradish , nutty caraway and dill re-imagine the classic salmon mixture .
Second course suggestions are cheekily categorized by ingredient origin : from the land , water , air or garden . Try a stellar , hearty tourtiere or a dense and robust bison meatloaf . The latter is house cured and accompanied by creamy mashed potatoes , delicately sweet braised red cabbage and shiitake gravy , a plate predicted to develop some addicts .
Seared duck is an equally successful iteration of earthy comfort food . ciao ! reviews
Pan seared medium duck breast is sauced with morello cherry glaze and served with kicky , chili flecked broccolini , and smooth-as-butter parsnip-celeriac purée . Each element is alone a triumph , together a memorable medley .
While French cuisine has been utterly naive to plant based eating , chef Tristan ’ s garden entrées offer such exciting flavour mash ups , committed meat lovers are sure to rave . Mushroom bourguignon finds rich , stewy flavour in its mix of meaty portobellos and cremini ’ shrooms , served over a creamy polenta . Riffing on barbeque pulled pork , a novel pulled jackfruit sandwich replaces pig with the exotic South Asian fruit , which packs a spicy punch .
Beyond technique and precision , French cooking , at its heart , delivers pleasure in abundance . This proves to be true when plated at home from take out containers too . And , picking up a hearty meal means you can have dessert even when you don ’ t save room — that ’ s a silver lining easy to support . So keep calm and order chocolate terrine . It is slightly bitter , rich and light , absolutely perfect , in not-so-perfect times .
ALENA RUSTIC ITALIAN Neighbourhood ... Charleswood Address ..... 3670 Roblin Blvd . Phone ............ 204-944-8748 Entrées ................... $ 15- $ 90
Having a chance to repeat a revelatory restaurant experience always breeds a jolt of excitement when a much-loved chef or restaurateur returns with a new concept — and if the old band ’ s getting back together ? Hold on to your hat .
The iconic duo returning to Winnipeg ’ s stage this year is Doug Stephen , of WOW ! Hospitality , and chef
Michael Dacquisto , who reunited to launch Alena Rustic Italian . From the much-loved Pasta La Vista to Carne Italian Chophouse , Stephen and Dacquisto have created some of Winnipeg ’ s finest dining experiences , and Alena is no exception , serving up homestyle Italian cooking with a contemporary twist and giving suburban Charleswood ’ s culinary scene a major boost .
Opening a new spot in 2020 is an uphill climb , but despite unprecedented challenges the dining room hummed through opening week with a safely distanced crowd , seated at tables divided by plexiglass . The restaurant ’ s focal point is an open kitchen centered around a large wood-fired oven . Spotless square tiles glimmer under bright working lights as pizzas and entrees get the wood-fired treatment .
The menu of Italian dishes is an invitation to share plates . Perfectly proportioned starters are seafood and meat centric , but include a handful of vegetarian options . Breaded and fried cerignola olives stuffed with beef and chicken are savoury and unexpected . Wild boar and beef meatballs are melt-in-your mouth tender , with a piquant San Marzano tomato sauce providing the perfect foil for the rich meat and fresh basil brightening each bite .
House made spaghetti tossed with bacon , tomatoes and basil is rich and simple , classic Italian comfort food . Entrees , accompanied by grilled vegetables and roasted potatoes , are hearty enough to share , and include two rotisserie options , “ spun ” chicken and porchetta . The grilled fish is a delicate branzino stuffed with lemon and herbs , and presented whole on a bed of arugula . Perfectly roasted potatoes , tender fennel , succulent eggplant , and juicy zucchini are dressed simply with olive oil , allowing their smoke-enhanced flavour to shine .
ciao ! / dec / jan / two thousand twenty 37