Ciao Oct/Nov 2019 Ciao_OctNov2019_web | Page 36

ciao! reviews DEER + ALMOND Neighbourhood . . . . . . Exchange Address. . . . . . . 85 Princess St Phone . . . . . . . 204-504-8562 Entrées . . . . . . . . . . . . $6-$28 Before family style dining went mainstream, deer + almond’s stunning sharing plates won over adventurous, curious and cautious palates alike. Its noticeably cool yet relaxed, offhandedly eccentric and minimalist atmosphere attracts a mixed crowd—there’s no such thing as over or underdressed here. Chef Mandel Hitzer has a way of turning each seemingly straightforward dish into some- thing unexpected, playful and mind-blowingly delicious. Take the chicken fried chicken for example. Only available on the lunch menu, this sandwich lands on the table appearing like a simple chicken sandwich but transforms into some- thing magical upon first chomp. A pillowy bun embraces juicy crisped chicken, a liberal spread of house ranch, and a shredded lettuce slaw toppling over heaps of pickles (who knew zucchini pickles were so much better than the cucumber variety?). The yellowfin tuna bowl also looks more or less as expected—radish, wakame cucumber and tender pink fish prettily arranged atop rice. Then, snap, crackle and pop—crispy rice throws a curveball, making each bite a textural surprise. This theme continues through an evening menu where nothing is quite as it seems. Advice: always start with an order of ‘Helluva’ dip paired with salty house chips. True to its clever name, it’s reminiscent of the fave onion-flavoured supermarket dip, but elevated with smoked Manitoba goldeye and tangy pickled beans. The restaurant’s renown is in pair- ing far-off ingredients and making it seem like they were meant to be together all along. Such is the case with beets, plums and Cambozola. Tossed with field greens, some pista- chios for crunch, mint for cool factor and a light honey dressing, each bite is revelatory, flavours evolving from one forkful to the next. Though frequently changing, the menu is often laced with our province’s regional ingredients. Manitoba pickerel exhibits global flair, swimming in creamy umami- rich grits steadied with bright and zingy chive oil. Pickled red onion adds a harmonizing hint of sweetness. Remember Keen’s hot mustard? Chef Mandel reimagines the deli staple into a vibrant vinai- grette for deer tataki. Napa cabbage and vivid green shishito peppers add colour to thin slices of melt-in-the- mouth venison, briefly seared and left raw in the middle. We Build Beautiful Kitchens for Wonderful People Are you wonderful? Call us at (204) 955-9716 or visit tentenkitchens.ca 34 ciao! / oct/nov / two thousand nineteen