inthekitchen
pulls together both the expected and
unexpected for a culinary experience
that challenges customer’s preconceived
notions about what they “like” to eat.
“We don’t overlook t he fact t hat
this is a huge leap for some people,” he
acknowledges. Though some diners may
be a little apprehensive, they’ve already
opened up their mind to a new experience
simply by coming in. Beaujena manages
the front of the house, and has perfected
her pre-dinner preamble to both ignite
adventurous diners and quell the fears of
nervous ones. She does give customers
the option of knowing what each dish is
as they arrive, but diners almost always
choose to be in the dark.
“Customers know the chef will push
you a bit; you’ll have something you’ve
never had before, but we just ask you give
moment. W hen, two years into the
venture, his head chef quit, Randy stepped
up and found himself acting as prep cook,
sous chef, and head chef all on his own.
More than 10 years on, the business
has involved into a restaurant unlike any
other. In an industry that can be tough
and competitive, the couple has created an
oasis of, dare we say, fun. Removing some
of the typical financial obstacles - they
own the building, for instance, and open
only on weekends, relieving the pressure
of filling seats daily - allows them to turn
each meal service into their own personal
dinner party.
The menu changes monthly, a real-time
exploration of Randy’s current culinary
fancies. Careful planning ensures that
every experience is new; it’s rare that a
dish will ever be repeated. While mainly
“Customers know the chef will push you a bit;
you’ll have something you’ve never had before,
but we just ask you give into the surprise,”
into the surprise,” says Randy.
He recalls a time he created a Bolognese
with beef heart that one customer fell in
love with. “When I told her it was beef
heart she admitted that it would not have
been something she would have ever
ordered, but enjoyed it all the same.”
Chef Randy has dabbled in many
career fields - he’s been a potter, writer,
and contractor - but cooking has been a
lifelong pursuit. Even as a kid he loved to
create things in the kitchen, a talent borne
out of necessity with two working parents.
As he grew older, he became a collector of
all things culinary: cook books, knives,
and knowledge to fuel his abilities in the
kitchen. The turning point from home
cook to public chef was when his daughter,
before leaving on a trip to Italy, asked him
to make an authentic Italian meal for 19
of her friends. While he can’t remember
exactly what he cooked, he never forgot
the feeling he got from creating a six
course, Italian experience his way.
Beaujena’s French Table opened in 2006,
just three years after that memorable
10
ciao! / feb/mar / two thousand nineteen
based in French cuisine, Randy will often
pepper in other worldly influences based
on his travels. However, he keeps most
of the dish’s ingredients as close to home
as he can. Developing close relationships
with local meat, grain, and produce
farmers has been a mandate for the
restaurateur who feels it’s not only a more
ethical business option, but frankly, just
tastes better.
To this day Beaujena’s remains a two-
person show. The couple joke about never
having the option of sick days, and even
when Randy severely cut his hand one
evening, he waited until dinner service
was over before heading to the hospital.
However, not having employees gives
the couple the freedom they’re looking
for with this culinary venture. Anything
more – whether it be staff or additional
seatings - would turn the restaurant into
a “job.” And you don’t want to ruin your
hobby by turning it into work, quips
Randy as he places down another vibrant
dish. Resisting the urge to ask and analyze
ingredients, we take a bite. It’s delicious.