ciao! reviews
Gaijin Izakaya
rewards. Silky miso ice cream atop
a smear of hazelnut cashew spread
packs a punch of umami and a last-
ing impression.
Timing can be everything, but
we’re glad Chef Ed has taken this
moment to jump again into the fray.
Gaijin Izakaya is presenting some of
the most exciting food we’ve seen
added to the food scene this year -
which may prove that it pays to never
ever, ever give up.
Gaijin Izakaya is open Mon-Thu
4 pm-9 pm, Fri 4 pm-10 pm, Sat 12
pm-10 pm and Sun 12 pm-8:30 pm.
lark
Neighbourhood . . . . Exchange
Address . . . . . . . . 91 Albert St
Email . . lark@chewcatering .ca
Osteria del Piolo
Lark
Wood Tavern
46
ciao! / dec/jan / two thousand nineteen
Entrées . . . . . . . . . . . $6-$17
Middle Eastern flair. Garlicky red
lentil hummus and herby za’atar
deliver memorable spice.
“Keith makes a mean mac and
cheese,” our server exclaimed on one
visit, with so much gusto that expec-
tations were particularly high when
it landed on the table. Smothered
in mornay sauce (béchamel com-
bined with shredded cheese), it’s a
decadent version of the comfort food
staple. Pickled fennel adds an unex-
pected twist to the mix, delivering a
hit of acidity and sweetness to the
sharp cheesiness of the mac, and sea-
soned focaccia crumbs coat the top,
packing crunch and punch.
An airy bed of sweet potato purée
isn’t what you’d expect for shakshuka,
but as most dishes go here, it’s these
twists on familiarity that kick it up a
notch and make Lark worthy of praise.
Kale stewed with peppers and onions
pool in the centre of the purée with
baked eggs, harmonizing sweetness
of the potato with a green bitterness.
Lime crema adds some zip to the mix.
Before leaving, make sure to
peruse the seemingly mile-long dis-
play of fresh baked bread and treats
(bagels are a hit) that fill the café
with its addictive bakery scent.
Mismatched floral backed chairs,
a gilded tin ceiling and modern
touches create a distinct personality
to the light-filled space. True to its
namesake, Lark delivers on mischief
and charm, bringing an unexpected
touch of whimsy to daytime eats.
Lark is open Mon-Fri 8am-5pm,
Sat & Sun closed.
Daytime cafés are having a wel-
come resurgence in Winnipeg
and chefs Kyle Lew and Kristen
Chemerika’s (Chew, Store Next
Door) newest venture, Lark, brings
fresh interpretation to a menu filled
with afternoon staples of sandwiches
and salads.
Salads veer away from typical
greens and dressing sides, instead
becoming the main event thanks to
creative flourishes. Take, for example,
the sans-lettuce smoked mackerel
salad: split red lentils, flavour-packed
pickled carrots and heaps of fresh
cilantro are dressed in a ginger and
wasabi aioli, cleverly juxtaposing the
brininess of the mackerel.
osteria del piolo
Sandwiches are prepared with
daily-baked baguettes, buns and but- Neighbourhood . . . . . . Tuxedo
tery croissants. Crisp pickled fennel,
a slightly acidic and sweet anise-like Address . . . . 3670 Roblin Blvd
pop of flavour, elevates a generous Phone . . . . . . . 204-594-9550
cut of juicy porchetta. Grainy apple
mustard and roasted garlic spread Entrées . . . . . . . . . . .$14-$24
work to bring back a sense of famili-
If there is something we have
arity to pork. A veg-friendly kale and
roasted zucchini sandwich exudes learned as professional eaters and