ciao! reviews
Pauline
Neighbourhood . . .St Boniface
Address . . . . . . .112 Marion St
Phone . . . . . . . 204-235-6001
Entrées . . . . . . . . . . . $8-$17
The best restaurants identify
exactly what a neighbourhood is
missing and step in to fill it, and it
turns out that a modern, Parisienne-
style café is exactly what Winnipeg’s
central French quarter needed. Enter
Pauline, a sun drenched daytime
bistro named for historic St. Boniface
painter, Pauline Boutal, who was cel-
ebrated for her fashion illustrations
in the early 20th century.
Inside, pretty honeycomb-tiled
floors complement a stylish nude
palette; clay-coloured booths are
cozied up with plush pillows, and
taupe walls are decorated with clas-
sic burnished brasserie mirrors and
Boutal’s charming Gatsby-era illus-
trations. Within its first few days of
opening, tables were already jam-
packed with brunchers eager to try
petite déjeuner in a new way.
Tartines, fancy toasts à la fran-
çaise, have millennials’ mouths
(and eyes) watering with 5 differ-
ent Instagrammable variations. As
expected, avocado appears top of
the list but gets an elegant upgrade
with pickled onions, sweet blistered
tomatoes and a perfectly poached
egg. An eye-catching prosciutto
and pear topped sourdough toast is
gussied up with a whipped dollop of
creamy chèvre. Its pepper dusted egg
wobbles over a generous fold of the
cured meat, threatening to burst at
any moment. Grainy Dijon infused
mayonnaise offers a lovely contrast
to sweetness from fresh slices of pear.
We’re betting on these tartines quickly
becoming the toasts of the town.
Classy comforts reign in the after-
noon. Putting an upmarket twist on
a Winnipeg classic, Pauline reinvents
house-made perogies with a deca-
dent lamb filling, frying them until
crisp and serving with a delicious
mint crema rather than sour cream.
A generous pile of coal-roasted
onions compliments each bite with
a hit of unexpected smokiness.
Those same onions invigorate
a fresh take on traditional French
onion soup, served dripping with
stretchy Gruyère cheese. A few
croutons even manage to magically
retain crunch despite swimming
in robust broth—a total rarity for
soup-soaked bread. Pro tip: sub any
side with this soup for a mere two
dollars—it’s worth it.
It may not be typical French fare,
but the veggie burger is an under-
the-radar standout. Mushrooms
are the star of its thick patty, keep-
ing the inside moist and the outside
super crunchy. Slathered between a
soft and buttery brioche bun, fiery
jalapeño aioli provides some serious
kick to the winning sandwich.
Grabbing a cappuccino to go at
the coffee counter on the way out
is a must, though it may mean fall-
ing prey to the glass display of daily
baked cakes, fruit-filled scones and
pastries. Ah, c’est la vie.
Pauline is open Mon-Sun 7 am-3 pm.
gaijin iZaKaYa
Neighbourhood . East Kildonan
Address . 2-1575 Regent Ave W
Phone . . . . . . . 204-615-6868
Entrées . . . . . . . . . . . $6-$20
Chef Edward Lam has been persis-
tently trying to win over Winnipeggers
to Izakaya for years. To clarify, Izakaya
is to Japan as tapas is to Spain. While
tapas have been embraced here for
at least a dozen years, not so for the
Japanese small plates.
Some will remember, Ed Lam
first tried to introduce Izakaya fare
at Miyabi in Osborne Village in
partnership with chef Masa Sugita,
who had made a name for himself
on the Japanese food scene in town.
Yet despite seemingly good odds, the
restaurant hit a hurdle: diners just
couldn’t get past synonymizing sushi
with Japanese cuisine.
Today, Ed Lam as chef owner of
Yujiro, is arguably one of the most
revered chefs in the city. If that isn’t
enough to boost confidence for a new
venture a regularly packed dining
room did. This time, Ed found the
most unexpected location, tucked into
a strip mall to try try again.
Step inside Gaijin Izakaya and
find mod industrial-chic interior,
groovier than anything for kilome-
tres in the Kildonans. Large wood
tables flanked with benches and bins
below to throw unsightly necessities
like mitts, hats and jackets lend a cool
vibe. Pictures on the menu (good
ones) bridge the gap for curious but
inexperienced Izakaya seekers. The
youthful, fresh package somehow
makes it easy to try something new.
Tofu, for instance: Agashi tofu is
presented in small fried cubes and
sitting on top of honey sweetened
soy sauce. On top is a mix of shiitake
mushrooms, pickled onion, shaved
nori, and a garnish of green onion
slivers. You heard it here - tofu is now
legitimately a craveable. Brussels
sprouts are sautéed here (not deep
fried) and greener and crunchier for
it. Perfectly crispy-on-the-outside
and fluffy on-the-inside fingerling
potatoes and bonito shavings make
the dish a study in textures from
tender to crackling.
Showcasing the level of artistry
that has won his sushi spots endur-
ing popularity, chef Lam’s tuna
crudo is a work of art. Delicate rosy
slices of the prized fish layer center
plate, with mango, pickled onions,
hazelnuts, and tiny slivers of nori
and herby oil dressing each bite.
Over ordering is a risk here, but
leaving room for dessert has its
ciao! / dec/jan / two thousand nineteen
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