Ciao Dec/Jan 2019 CIAO_Decjan2019_Digital | Page 48

ciao! reviews Gaijin Izakaya rewards. Silky miso ice cream atop a smear of hazelnut cashew spread packs a punch of umami and a last- ing impression. Timing can be everything, but we’re glad Chef Ed has taken this moment to jump again into the fray. Gaijin Izakaya is presenting some of the most exciting food we’ve seen added to the food scene this year - which may prove that it pays to never ever, ever give up. Gaijin Izakaya is open Mon-Thu 4 pm-9 pm, Fri 4 pm-10 pm, Sat 12 pm-10 pm and Sun 12 pm-8:30 pm. lark Neighbourhood . . . . Exchange Address . . . . . . . . 91 Albert St Email . . lark@chewcatering .ca Osteria del Piolo Lark Wood Tavern 46 ciao! / dec/jan / two thousand nineteen Entrées . . . . . . . . . . . $6-$17 Middle Eastern flair. Garlicky red lentil hummus and herby za’atar deliver memorable spice. “Keith makes a mean mac and cheese,” our server exclaimed on one visit, with so much gusto that expec- tations were particularly high when it landed on the table. Smothered in mornay sauce (béchamel com- bined with shredded cheese), it’s a decadent version of the comfort food staple. Pickled fennel adds an unex- pected twist to the mix, delivering a hit of acidity and sweetness to the sharp cheesiness of the mac, and sea- soned focaccia crumbs coat the top, packing crunch and punch. An airy bed of sweet potato purée isn’t what you’d expect for shakshuka, but as most dishes go here, it’s these twists on familiarity that kick it up a notch and make Lark worthy of praise. Kale stewed with peppers and onions pool in the centre of the purée with baked eggs, harmonizing sweetness of the potato with a green bitterness. Lime crema adds some zip to the mix. Before leaving, make sure to peruse the seemingly mile-long dis- play of fresh baked bread and treats (bagels are a hit) that fill the café with its addictive bakery scent. Mismatched floral backed chairs, a gilded tin ceiling and modern touches create a distinct personality to the light-filled space. True to its namesake, Lark delivers on mischief and charm, bringing an unexpected touch of whimsy to daytime eats. Lark is open Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Sat & Sun closed. Daytime cafés are having a wel- come resurgence in Winnipeg and chefs Kyle Lew and Kristen Chemerika’s (Chew, Store Next Door) newest venture, Lark, brings fresh interpretation to a menu filled with afternoon staples of sandwiches and salads. Salads veer away from typical greens and dressing sides, instead becoming the main event thanks to creative flourishes. Take, for example, the sans-lettuce smoked mackerel salad: split red lentils, flavour-packed pickled carrots and heaps of fresh cilantro are dressed in a ginger and wasabi aioli, cleverly juxtaposing the brininess of the mackerel. osteria del piolo Sandwiches are prepared with daily-baked baguettes, buns and but- Neighbourhood . . . . . . Tuxedo tery croissants. Crisp pickled fennel, a slightly acidic and sweet anise-like Address . . . . 3670 Roblin Blvd pop of flavour, elevates a generous Phone . . . . . . . 204-594-9550 cut of juicy porchetta. Grainy apple mustard and roasted garlic spread Entrées . . . . . . . . . . .$14-$24 work to bring back a sense of famili- If there is something we have arity to pork. A veg-friendly kale and roasted zucchini sandwich exudes learned as professional eaters and