CaLDRON February 2014 - Valentine's Day Special | Page 15

REVIEWS - DELHI
course. I’m more for mains when it comes
to food from Lucknow; good biryani, good
curries and believe it or not, good lentils too.
I remember growing up on ‘Dal Gosht’ to the
point where I wondered why was dal cooked
without meat at all! The ‘Taar Korma’ graced
our plates first. ‘Taar’, said like tar, is sticky
gravy, stewed overnight, usually in mutton fat,
where the pieces of mutton korma are so delightfully fun to eat. The grease will make your
fingers stick together, but stay unswayed.
Going back to spices without being spicy,
this meal did ample justice. Now that is the
new way to produce quality regional cuisines
– give pungency where it’s due or else leave
it be! Out of the ‘Subz Diwani Handi’ and
‘Naqab Lagi Biryani’ biryani, I loved the latter
more for being meaty, rich and super aromatic. I prefer to enjoy Awadhi dals as is, with a
crisp, plain naan and slivers of raw onions,
maybe a touch of lime. All this worked very
well for the ‘Dal Sultani’ and despite being
made with Arhar or Toor dal, it was warm,
soupy and soothing. We completed the meal
with an epic Paan Kulfi, something I never tire
of – the perfect combination of a digestive and
a dessert.
Awadhi cuisine is served all over the town,
but it takes time and know-how to really put
out a worthy spread. Cafe Uno has gotten
their hands on some key recipes and have
done a great job of reproducing them in a city
that loves its chicken and mutton sheekh and
biryani. ■

A part of the large spread on offer.

Parul Pratap Shirazi

CaLDRON February 2014

Rating: 4 out of 5
Price: INR 2100++ (meal for two)
Address: Eros’ Shangri-La Hotel, Ashoka Rd, Janpath, Connaught Place, New
Delhi - 110001
Phones: 011-41191010
15