CaLDRON February 2014 - Valentine's Day Special | Page 14

REVIEWS - DELHI

DAAWAT-e-AWADH
at

CAFE UNO

A fine Awadh feast awaited diners during the festival at Cafe Uno.

I

Chef, the dessert section of the Cafe My history with Awadhi cuisine
Uno breakfast is exceptional as of
goes back to my mother’s kitcht featured as part of a convertoday.
en. She spent her growing years in
sation a month ago. We were
Lucknow and it was not unusual
at the ‘Asia’s 50 Best Round Table
An Illuminating Meal
for mutton to be cooked in fat and
Luncheon’, a conclave of food proWe had the pleasure of a conversa- not ghee or oil in our home. It also
fessionals talking about cuisines,
tion with Chefs Abhinandan Singh helped us appreciate subtle flavours
fusion and innovation, and a leading
and individual attributes of spices
hotelier said that no matter how
and meats in particular.
much she innovated in her kitchens
Going back to spices
and across her hotels, it was always
a round of
without being spicy, We started withthe ‘Khasta appeIndian food that people reacted
tizers, of which
Murgh
best to. She believed this applied to
this meal did ample Tikka’ really stood out. The chicken
international travelers andIndians.
justice. Now that is was perfectly cooked and the bal-I
Honestly, for me it has to be specifance of spices was very palatable.
ic regional cuisine that’s the draw
the new way to pro- didn’t miss the ‘mirchi’ part of the
and the preferred ones are Awadh,
duce quality regional masala at all!
Konkani and Kashmiri.

cuisines – give pungency where it’s due
or else leave it be!

Though fish isn’t a very common
component of this cuisine as compared to say lamb or mutton, the
‘Mahi Malai’ was much appreciated
as well. Here’s what I have noticed
lately, the quality of ‘Veg Galouti’
and Anwar Ahmed, the curators and across kitchens has become a delicreators of this festival. Chef Singh cately spiced, vegetable cutlet that
In fact, I have rarely had the same
traveled to Lucknow with his team taste so much like meat, or is that
dish twice, unless I order a la carte.
the meat gets so fine and so proand spent a week observing the
Cafe Uno is a favourite with expats
nuances of this fantastic and rather cessed, it’s all about the essential
and business folk from the heart of
fine cuisine. I love that about veteran flavour?
Delhi and Chef Darren Conole has
professionals, they are always keen
done a fair job of balancing a menu
to learn. He actually sat through our Tucked in a warm corner with the
that has something for everyone.
banter about Awadhi food, consid- sun flooding in from the French
With the addition of a French Pastry
windows, we relished our main
ering he knew way more than us.
So when I heard about the Daawate-Awadh food fest at Cafe Uno,
Shangri-La, I had to drop in. I like
Cafe Uno – it’s not gigantic and impersonal, it’s centrally located, and
they innovate through the year.

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CaLDRON February 2014