Vineyards farmed biodynamically at Domaine Magdalena
So , jumping into my first wine review , we have the 2021 Devium Lewis Peak Petillant Naturel aka “ Pét-Nat .” This is 75 percent Malbec and 25 percent Riesling from Lewis Peak . “ Pét-Nat ” is an ancient way to make sparkling wine where the primary fermentation happens in the bottle , creating light bubbles and playful aromatics . This is exactly what you get here ! You ’ ll notice the deep ruby huge on this wine but when you put your nose into the glass you smell the high toned , lively fruit tickling your nose with an interplay of dark and citrus fruits , a hint of
“ I try to minimally impact the wine
from vine to bottle , but I will never serve you a flawed wine .”
-Matt Austin , Grosgrain Vineyards the environment . But isn ’ t that what many winemakers have been doing for hundreds of years , to bring you “ terroir-driven wines ?” Well … yes ! Some or most of the natural techniques have been around for hundreds of years . So , here we are , where everything new is old and everything comes back into fashion . But the pendulum had swung too far one way , to swing back to the other . By that I mean , over-extracted , over-influenced , over-oaked , maximum-manipulated wines .
I don ’ t want to climb too far up on my soapbox , but in my humble opinion these treatments are not expressions of place or what wine really has to offer . The natural wine scene has been expanding ever rapidly throughout the world , especially in the U . S . and the Pacific Northwest . What I think is moving us to more innovation , more curiosity , and an expanding tapestry of wine in our region , are the winemakers using some or all of the tenets of natural winemaking . I believe younger wine enthusiasts appreciate that style of a lighter , expressive , playful — and let ’ s be honest — chuggable wine ( not that I ever would ). Essentially , they make wines that are “ not what their fathers and grandfathers drink .” Don ’ t get me wrong ; these wines and winemakers are making serious , complex , and sometimes very ageable wine , albeit many are made to drink now .
2021 Devium Lewis Peak Petillant Naturel aka “ Pét-Nat ”
pepper , and even a little pop of cherry cola — all on a refreshing frame that makes you go back for one sip after another . Native yeast fermentation gives this wine a very specific profile you will only find from this site and from this winemaking technique .
One of my favorite explanations of this new style of winemaking comes from Winemaker Matt Austin at Grosgrain . To quote Matt , “ I try to minimally impact the wine from vine to bottle , but I will never serve you a flawed wine .”
Which brings us to the 2021 Grosgrain Skin Contact Sémillon . 100 percent Semillon from Les Collines Vineyard in Walla Walla , Washington . Half of the grapes are fermented on the skins for 10 days , adding texture to the mouthfeel . Aged in concrete egg , neutral oak , clay amphora and stainless steel gives this wine minerality , texture , and a cool , more amber color . Skin contact and amphora
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