B
eyond the ever-popular trellising mentioned above, stakes are the next most
popular way of training vines. This method permits the benefits of trellising with
the added benefit that ANY topography can be appropriated into a vineyard. From
rocky Spain to terraced France to the truly vertiginous Mosel Valley of Germany,
grapes can be grown where nothing else will survive. Staked vines also permit fewer
grapes per acre to be grown than trellising — a fact that makes them the love of
artisan winemakers for the relative intensity of flavor, and the bane of big production
wineries everywhere.
Gobelets behave like both staked vines (but without the support) and like the wreaths
— but taller from the ground. Gobelets also grow intense grapes with a more intense
flavor. This system was developed by Caesar’s Romans and moderates the effect of
high temperature climates. While not every variety produces a strong enough stalk
to support the weight of its fruit, varieties like Grenache and Mourvedre thrive under
this training. The system is easy to prune back every winter but a real pain in the
back to harvest.
Travelling to wine country this year? A quick look through the vineyards offers
insight into the decisions their winegrowing team makes to create distinctive wines.
When in doubt, ask how they do it and you will find an impassioned answer. Ask
your favorite winemakers how they do it!
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ART CHOWDER MAGAZINE