DIRECTIONS BY
T
he fashion system is currently
undergoing a major evolution – a
revolution – even in terms of where
the identity of its various entities lies.
Which season are we seeing? What is
being presented? Are we at couture,
pre-fall or resort? Do these garments fall
under the category of ready-to-wear or
made-to-measure?
DISRUPTIVE
FLUX AT
Haute
Couture…
CHALLENGING
CONVENTION
The world is in constant discussion
regarding disruption as a way forward
across various fields, and the fashion
industry does not stay immune to it…
A state of uneasiness and upheaval was
evident owing to the disjoint happening
at the Haute Couture Week, this season,
which raised a question regarding the
feasibility of couture in coming times and what it stands for today. Is it
still about extravagance and glamour, or are we headed towards a more
apparent shift for ready-to-wear collections in couture owing to the
increase in the spending power of emerging markets?
The latter is brought into perspective with the decision to welcome and
include American talent with respect to ace design houses of Rodarte
and Proenza Schouler, who were invited to showcase their collections at
the prestigious Couture Week held exclusively in Paris, along with Peter
Dundas. A move that certainly hints on a wider acceptance targeted towards
the industry’s expansion but at the same time somewhat also takes away
the allure and regality associated with haute couture.
The fact that many of the presentations showcased ready-to-wear, daywear
and experimental pieces – owing to avant-garde designers such as Maison
Margiela, Iris van Herpen and Viktor and Rolf – signal a shift to an era that
sees a rise in wearable streetwear inspired fashion.
Not that any of these designers are lacking, but just that their fields are very
different as opposed to haute couture in the traditional sense of the word.
And thus the resulting reaction from the assemblage was one filled with
curiosity, uncertainty, bafflement and awe – as all couture showcases are
deserving of awe.
This season saw a battle of wits between traditionalists and modernists
coming full throttle to give birth to a yet unnamed branch of fashion that
sits somewhere between the confines of couture and ready-to-wear – a
universe which we shall have the honour of navigating our way through
in the approaching seasons.
FFT puts together 5 of the most thought-provoking presentations by
designers who have contributed towards channelling the (conflictingly)
apparent ‘shift’ in the industry, owing to their signature style, craftsmanship,
workmanship and how they amalgamate the three to translate their genius
into the world of haute couture.
www.apparelresources.com | JULY 16-31, 2017 | Apparel Online India
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