Apparel Online Bangladesh Magazine May Issue 2019 | Page 55

Problems faced during
garment making
• Shell life of fabric is very limited,
once sealing is opened
• Difficult to find the right curing
time in the oven
• Risk of yellowing effect, due to high
temperature in the curing oven
• Special thread and interlining
required, because of heat
treatment in the oven
Dip-spin process
This process is the most popular
process for wrinkle-free shirts
and can be used for 100 per cent
cotton fabrics or cotton blends.
After the shirt is manufactured as
usual, it is dipped into a mixture
of chemicals, which is absorbed
by the cotton fibres. After the
treatment in a tumbler, the shirt
is still moisturised and has to
be pressed entirely. Importantly,
during the pressing operation on the
various Veit-Kannegiesser collars,
cuffs and body-presses, the curing
process starts. After pressing, the
shirt will be put on a hanger and
can be cured in a curing oven at
about 140°C for about 3 to 5 minutes.
One of the key factors for a perfect
appearance is the pressing quality,
as after the curing operation in
an oven, all wrinkles will stay for
life. Retouching with an iron is
impossible.
Problems faced during
garment making
• Washing process is done by the
shirt manufacturer
• Difficult to find the right curing
time in the oven
• Risk of yellowing effect, due to high
temperature in the curing oven
• Special thread and interlining
required, because of heat
treatment in the oven
Vapour-phase
This curing system is used in some
countries only as very aggressive
chemicals are used. Similar to the Dip-
spin system, the shirt is manufactured
as usual. After the final pressing, a
special curing oven is required as,
instead of liquid chemicals, gas is
used to make the shirt resistant to
wrinkles. The gas circulates through
the oven and penetrates into the
cotton fibre. After a while, the gas has
to be evacuated from the oven. Before
the shirt is folded and bagged, it needs
to be washed in order to remove any
residual chemicals.
Anyway, all parts have to be pressed
before curing. Nearly all chemical
suppliers insist on accurate pressing
and curing temperatures. Pressure
and timing also matters a lot. As the
cotton fabric starts to cure in the
pressing operation itself, the evenness
of pressing temperature and dwell
time is important. The advantage
of reliable pressing equipment
like the Veit-Kannegiesser system
lies in its accuracy of temperature
and pressure.
The longer the pressing time, the
shorter the time in the oven for
curing later. After pressing, the
shirt should not be touched to
avoid fingerprints and impressions.
Usually, the shirts are cured in the
oven on a hanger on a cloth rail.
The curing time and temperature is
specified by the chemical suppliers
and have to be met under all
circumstances.
A collage of wrinkle-free apparels
Veit- Kannegiesser H-PV2, for pressing the entire body of the shirt in one operation. It is equipped with
an automatic unloader.
Process sequence of WR shirts
It is important to talk to the interlining
and thread suppliers before the WR
shirt is manufactured to maintain
the quality after curing and to avoid
bubbles for the interlining and
puckering for the seams.
Problems faced during
garment making
• Extremely aggressive chemicals
which can harm health
• Banned in a number of countries
• Risk of yellowing effect, due to high
temperature in the curing oven
• Special thread and interlining
required, because of heat
treatment in the oven
www.apparelresources.com | MAY 2019 | Apparel Online Bangladesh
55