Apparel Online Bangladesh Magazine May Issue 2019 | Page 54

WR TECHNOLOGIES FOR
COTTON SHIRTS
Functional properties are
gaining importance in
garments and an increasing
number of buyers are asking
for specialised finishes in
different product categories.
For shirts, the most common
finish that high-end buyers
are looking for is wrinkle-free
finish. Major buyers/retailers,
who are sourcing wrinkle-free
shirts, include Columbia Sports
Wear, Marvins, TJ Maxx, Eddie
Bauer, Timberland, C&A,
Tom Tailor, JCPenney, Banana
Republic, Shopko and Gap. In
fact Timberland is asking for
nano finishes like water, dust
and oil repellence along with
wrinkle resistance in yarn dyed
solids. Buyers who specifically
ask for wrinkle-free finishes, are
willing to pay the cost for such
treatment which can vary from
50 cents to US $ 1 depending
on the brand and the treatment.
India has lot of catching up to
do, but some major players who
are already providing wrinkle-
free shirts, include Shahi, Opera
Clothing, Ambattur Clothing,
SM Apparels, Bhanu Gartex,
K Mohan, Roverco Apparels,
Medident India, Leela Scottish
to name a few. Axel Baumanns
of Kannegiesser provides some
answers to the wrinkle-free
process of cotton shirts.
T
he idea of a shirt which does
not have to be ironed anymore
is as old as the cotton shirt itself.
All attempts, which started decades
ago to establish a shirt of polyester
or any other artificial fibre, failed
as the consumer understood from
the beginning the positive attributes
of the cotton fibre. By its ability to
hold moisture and to release it in a
controlled manner, cotton is one of
the most ideal fibres among all. It
is breathable and provides a good
feeling for the garment wearer. This
may have changed by today’s new
developments of artificial fibres,
which have nothing to do with those
from the sixties of the last century.
But cotton fibre is still number one
in people’s mind when they think of
comfort.
In the last decade, new technologies
have been established to prepare
the cotton fabric by chemicals, to
make them almost wrinkle-free
or, as some manufacturers call it
wrinkle resistant (WR). Basically,
four different technologies are known
today to do so:
• Pre-curing
• Post-curing
• Dip-spin
• Vapour-phase
All four systems have one issue in
common: the cotton fibre is made to
swell artificially and, by this process,
it is losing its memory. Instead of
being curled as it naturally is, it
becomes straight. And as it has
increased its diameter, it is almost
impossible to crease. The negative
aspect is that by this process it loses
a part of its tensile strength and the
tendency to absorb moisture.
Pre-cured fabric process
Fabric can be a 100 per cent cotton
fabric or a cotton blend. Contrary
to all the other WR processes, by
this system the fabric does not need
any further heat treatment as the
curing process is done before the
shirt is manufactured. The finished
54 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2019 | www.apparelresources.com
AXEL BAUMANNS,
Dipl. Ing. GMT
(Garment
Manufacturing
Technology), with
Kannegiesser since
1987
fabric is already resistant to wrinkles.
Unfortunately, no crisp and sharp
creases can be realised for collars,
cuffs and front placket edges, as
the fabric does not accept any final
pressing. This process requires a shirt
finisher with steam and air.
Problems faced during
garment making
• No crisp edges on collars, cuffs and
pockets
• No special thread or interlining
required
Post-cured fabric process
Fabric can be a 100 per cent cotton
fabric or a cotton blend. The fabric
roll is delivered with the curing
chemical inside the post-cured
process sealed in a polyester bag.
Once the bag is opened, the fabric
has to be utilised entirely, as it cannot
be stored for a long time. After the
shirt is manufactured, it has to be
pressed fully and put on a hanger.
The shirt is then cured in a hanging
position on a cloth rack inside an
oven for 3 to 5 minutes at about 130°C
to 150°C (depending on the chemical
used). Now the shirt is ready for
folding and bagging.