Apparel Online Bangladesh Magazine December Issue 2018 | Page 47

Variation of work content between
factories for similar operations is
due to the use of different machines,
work aids, methods and different
workstation layout; and lastly,
a variable work atmosphere. A
moderately strong positive correlation
(0.56) was found between average
work content and standard deviation
of work contents, which suggests that
longer duration of operations are
prone to change of methods.
One example will explain how
technology and method reduces work
content. Run-stitch collar, edge trim,
collar turn, collar iron and collar
top stitches are five consecutive
operations. Table A (overleaf) shows
3 different ways of doing it. While the
second method is most prevalent and
maximum factories do it that way,
there are other ways of doing the
same. While in the first method, 2nd,
3rd and 4th operations are combined;
in the third method it is done in
only 4 steps, the 3rd and 4th
being combined.
The first method uses NS-81
Ngai Shing collar trim-turn-iron
workstation; the second method uses
manual trimming – turning and
ironing. For first operation, that is,
run-stitch collar, almost every factory
uses single needle flat bed drop feed
machine with edge cutter clocking
on average 0.59 minutes, even though
premium machine manufacturers
suggest the use of variable top and
bottom feed single needle lockstitch
machine with substantial saving
of time.
When we look at the overall picture,
we can see that in case of collar
preparation Company-1 has the
maximum SAM value and Company-4
has the minimum. Similarly,
Company-6 takes minimum amount
of time for cuff preparation and
Company-1 the maximum. From
the database of the Company, it is
clear that to reduce the SAM value,
that is, to increase production,
advancement of technology plays the
most important role. Technologically
advanced machines reduce the
variables that affect human
Collar preparation
Collar preparation is further consolidated to 6
different operations, which involves 4 sewing
and 2 non-sewing operations. Maximum
variation of timing among companies is
observed in collar trim, turn and iron while
minimum variation is in top stitch top collar
band.
Graphical presentation of SAM values for collar preparation
Cuff preparation
Cuff preparation consists of 5 different
operations including sewing button and
buttonholes. While other sewing operations
show variation of time among different
companies, cycle sewing operations like
button and buttonholes show least amount of
variation.
Graphical presentation of SAM values for cuff preparation
Sleeve preparation
Sleeve preparation consists of 4 different
operations including sewing button and
buttonholes. It is interesting to note that apart
from buttonholes and button sew, down sleeve
placket making also shows very minimal timing
variation among companies. The consistency of
timing in down sleeve placket making may be
attributed to it being a simple operation with
minimal elements and aided by a binder.
Graphical presentation of SAM values for sleeve preparation
Back preparation
Back preparation consists of only 2 operations.
Sewing brand labels is a relatively standard
operation; either two side sewn or four side sewn,
thus showing minimal time deviation among
different companies. Yoke attachment and top
stitch can be done in different ways, showing
time variation from 0.45 to 1.45 minutes. Also,
the variation in pleat style adds to the complexity
involved.
Graphical presentation of SAM values for back preparation
Front preparation
Front preparation consists of the most complex
operations and also maximum variation of timings
due to the different ways of achieving it. The
number of steps can vary from 6 to 15. Again, it
is interesting to note that button placket making
is a relatively standard operation (whatever be
the style variation). Buttonhole placket making,
pocket preparation and pocket attachment have
numerous shapes and variations, as borne out by
the variations in timing.
Graphical presentation of SAM values for front preparation
www.apparelresources.com | December 2018 | Apparel Online Bangladesh
47