Apparel Online Bangladesh Magazine December Issue 2018 | Page 46
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Sewing of a Shirt: Scale
or Scope?
Manufacturing of commodity garments seems to be an easy project for potential manufacturers. The
humble shirt is one such standard garment. Be it for export or domestic use, the product seems to
be in the ever hot category, even in the recent ‘trouser-rush’ among Indian entrepreneurs. Ram Das,
a student of Masters of Fashion Technology, under the guidance of Prof. Prabir Jana, NIFT, New
Delhi (India), has analysed various operations, machinery and equipment available, besides different
technology levels and return on investment in shirt manufacturing. While this article is not a project
feasibility report for the same, it provides an interesting insight into details.
A
man’s shirt can be classified
into casual and formal. While
there are in-between variations,
we will primarily discuss casual
and semi-formal shirts. We have
analysed data from approximately
10 sources, including manufacturers
from India and abroad and sewing
machine suppliers. It was found that
SAM value of shirt varies from 31 to
17.80 minutes. Shirt making can be
classified into six sections, namely
collar, cuff, sleeve, front and back
preparation and assembly, where
back preparation takes the least
amount of time, while assembly
takes the maximum. The number of
operations varies from 38 to 51.
Collar preparation
Collar preparation may have a
minimum of 9 to a maximum of 18
operations depending upon styles,
methods and machines used. In the
given chart, we can see that in case
of the run-stitch collar, Company-4
has the minimum SAM value
due to use of the technologically
advanced machine, but in the case
of Company-1, the SAM value is
maximum as basic level single
needle lockstitch machine is used for
the operation. Similarly variations
of SAM for cuff, sleeve, back and
front preparation and assembly are
presented in the following graphs.
Company-1
Company-2
Company-3
Company-4
Company-5
Company-6
Company-7
Comparison of SAM for run-stitch collars of 8 companies shows that all six sections have variable times due to
individual operations within each section
46 Apparel Online Bangladesh | December 2018 | www.apparelresources.com
Company-8