Apparel Online Bangladesh Magazine August Issue 2018 | Page 44

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Myth Buster

Mass Customisation, MTM and Bespoke: Alike or Not?

Customisation in broader terms could be defined as tailor-made; the broad objectives remain the same, i. e. personalisation, which is a growing trend among several brands. No wonder that concepts like Mass Customisation( MC), Made-to-Measure( MTM) and Bespoke Manufacturing( BM), are becoming increasingly popular in garment manufacturing in recent times to ensure personalisation of garment pieces. However, there are finer differences between them. Unfortunately, knowingly or unknowingly, people often use the wrong terminology on several occasions. Not only that, commercial business models need not necessarily follow any single definition in entity. There is always mixed approach, thereby a single business model may have characteristics of multiple concept. However, we must remember the individual advantages and disadvantages to accrue benefit in fullest.
Mass Customisation and Made-to-Measure are same
WRONG
Probably, this is the most intriguing and controversial truth. Mass Customisation could be defined as massive personalisation or personalisation for everybody. Mass Customisation is the method of‘ effectively postponing the task of differentiating a product for a specific customer until the latest possible point in the supply network’,( Chase, Jacobs & Aquilano, 2006, p. 419). It can also be defined as‘ producing goods and services to meet individual customer’ s needs with near mass production efficiency’( Tseng & Jiao, 2001, p. 685). Madeto-Measure on the other hand means made in accordance with a specific individual’ s measurements or designed and made as per individual specifications. While Mass Customisation( MC) is happening as a whole according to individual taste, i. e. customers are allowed to choose the material specification( colour / texture etc.), style specification, among others, Made-to-Measure( MTM), focuses is on customisation
The word‘ Bespoke’ itself is derived from the verb to‘ bespeak’, with the specialised meaning“ to give order for it to be made”. The term‘ Bespoke’ in fashion is reserved for individually patterned and crafted men’ s clothing, analogous to women’ s haute couture in contrast to mass manufactured ready-to-wear.
of measurement / size / specifications only. The difference between Mass Customisation and Made-to- Measure lies in measurement and / or size specifications, i. e. in pattern making. In Mass Customisation, measurements are matched with a pre-determined set of patterns while in Made-to-Measure, separate patterns are developed based on individual measurement. After patterns are made, the cutting, sewing and finishing of garments may be similar for Mass Customisation and MTM.
Made-to-Measure and Bespoke Manufacturing are same
WRONG
The word‘ Bespoke’ itself is derived from the verb to‘ bespeak’, with the specialised meaning‘ to give order for it to be made’. The term‘ Bespoke’ in fashion is reserved for individually patterned and crafted men’ s clothing, analogous to women’ s haute couture in contrast to mass manufactured ready-to-wear. While widespread in the United Kingdom, the term is almost unknown in the United States, although it may
be used by some in the high-end tailoring business. Both MTM and Bespoke Manufacturing( BM) can be called fashioned to fit a particular need or purpose. While Mass Customisation and Made-to-Measure differ in pattern development process, Bespoke Manufacturing differ itself by how the garment is being cut and assembled. In Bespoke Manufacturing, single piece garment is cut and then sewn using‘ make through system’ of manufacturing and( also known as‘ tailoring system’ where one person sews the complete garment). The basic difference between MTM and Bespoke Manufacturing lies in the method of sewing; while in Bespoke Manufacturing, sewing is done by make through system of manufacturing, in MTM, sewing is done by modular manufacturing system.
Bespoke tailoring requires fitting, while Mass Customisation doesn’ t
RIGHT
Bespoke is synonymous to Savile Row suit, defined as“ a suit made on or around Savile Row bespoken
44 Apparel Online Bangladesh | August 2018 | www. apparelresources. com