Afrotrend Magazine APR.2015 1st ISSUE | Page 9

09 BEAUTY This is so because I rarely cared for it, and by that i mean it was just waBy Charlie /Allthingsmodish.weebly.com ter and vaseline. Then another season of cutting. In not so many words, it was neglected and had no Hair 1,2,3…. chance of ever getting any length. So why is your hair “not growing”? Genetics could be for the most part, but usually it is due to doing too much or too little. One of the most common mistake is during bedtime. At the very least always braid your hair for bed and the best and the best method is to either wrap your hair in a silk scarf or get a silk pillow. The friction between the hair and pillow is not good because it dries and causes hair breakage. A common observation in most salons the addiction to heat. I remember how much my hair used to break after constant “overblowing”, this is the process of blow drying hair to the point where it straightens to look like relaxed hair. Now this is torture. All hair types, be it Asian, Caucasian or African, get heat damage. Heat breaks down the strength of hair. My hair is not growing… Most people don’t know this but hair never stops growing, it just stops retaining length and grows slower. I had natural hair most of my school life and it was always tapered but funny thing is no one would guess the actual length. Moisturising is equally beneficial to natural and relaxed hair. This can be done daily, a little oil and water in that hair goes a long way. We always think more pomade/oil and less water, but the fact is oil is used to add and to seal moisture and nutrients, so its more water less pomade/oil. Moisturizing is equally beneficial to natural and relaxed hair Conditioning hair is a great way to ensure that moisture penetrates the hair. Once or twice a week could be great, but if you have natural hair it could be more if you like that hair soft with less frizz. A deep conditioning can be done from once a week to every fortnight. Heat can be added during conditioning to activate the ingredients and to also make the process shorter. Try to avoid direct heat. African hair in particular is the weakest so best to reduce on that heat. What chemicals do to your hair? which is good The biggest offender would be relaxers, they basically are alkaline and usually have a pH of 10 -14, hair and skin have a pH of between 4.5 and 5. Its only a matter of imagination to figure out the stress relaxers cause to hair. The strong chemicals in the relaxer break the bonds in the hair permanently to create straight strands of hair. Hair is already weak hair, chemicals, such as hair to straighten it. The pH goes from 4.5 to 10+ then it has to be neutralised back to 4.5. Most shampoos and conditioners can help neutralise the relaxer but usually labels do not state the pH level to consumers. Self mixed relaxers always come with a neutraliser cause then you know your hair is neutralised.The strong chemicals in the relaxer break the bonds in the hair permanently to create straight strands of hair. Hair is already weak hair, chemicals, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, or guanidine hydroxide, break down the protein bonds in our I would suggest rinsing hair with vinegar after relaxing hair, it is the best alternative to nothing all at. Simply because vinegar is a weak acid that can,at the very least, drop the ph of the relaxed hair. Vinegar is also good for natural hair as a rinse. On the opposite side of the pH scale are alkalines, its been mentioned that hair relaxers are made from alkalines at the very end of the pH scale because these have the strength necessary to straighten hair, now let see what happens when you use weaker alkalis such as baking soda or simply sodium bicarbonate. This can be treated like a weak relaxer though the results are barely obvious. It is also used to wash hair for people who do not like multiple chemical laden shampoos. In reality think of oil as an acid and everything that removes grease/oil as an alkaline. The main ingredients in shampoos are usually ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate or sodium lauryl sulfate. They are terrible for hair as they do more than cleaning off dirt but also strip hair of its moisture and oils.Take note; the cheaper the shampoo the more likely its harmful to hair. The essence of this knowledge is to learn to balance the hairs chemistry. Acids close the hair cuticles and alkalis open the cuticles. Oils and vinegar close the cuticles and seal in the moisture while shampoos and soda open the cuticles to allow the moisture to get absorbed. Neither one should be done more than the other, meaning do not over condition hair and do not use too much oil simply because hair can become over hydrated when cuticles remain open in water and also can be stripped of moisture if too much oil is used. BODY-Three Healthy Eating Goals Drink water instead of sugary dr