By Charlotte Rouchouze

I believe it was Lenny Bruce who invented the categorizing of anything under the sun as either Jewish or non-Jewish, based on certain innate characteristics.( He, of course, used the term goyish, but we will avoid that here …) Lime Jell-O is non-Jewish; fruit salad is Jewish. Ray Charles is Jewish,( he wasn’ t actually), but actor Eddie Cantor is non-Jewish( he was actually Jewish). Etc., etc. So what about cottage cheese? I think we instinctively know that cottage cheese is very Jewish, although Jews also love to mock it— unsurprising since hating on our traditional foods is also very Jewish. In fact, when Tablet Magazine ranked the 100 most Jewish foods, cottage cheese figured prominently. It turns out to be a favorite of the Yiddish kitchen, especially in summer, and I think it’ s due for a revival. If you are ready to scoff at the thought of fat-free cottage cheese sitting with a piece of melon on a bed of limp lettuce, bear with me.

The love of cottage cheese among Ashkenazi Jews actually comes from an Eastern European tradition of using farmer cheese, its drier, firmer, and less salty European cousin. The family of cheeses I’ ll call farmer cheeses is basically the simplest form of

cheese one can make, requiring no rennet, no special bacteria, and no aging. It is what you get when you take fresh cow’ s milk, curdle it, using a simple acid such as lemon or vinegar or a dab of cultured dairy such as buttermilk or yogurt, and strain it to varying degrees. It is very similar to quark, ricotta, pot cheese, curd cheese, cotilla, or even feta.

In Eastern Europe, it is known by various names such as tvorog( Russian and Polish), varškė( Lithuanian), and pot kaes, or-

טאָפּ-זעכּ‏( Yiddish), and is a key component in various types of pancakes and blintzes, cheesecakes, dumplings, both sweet and savory, pierogies and salads. It is also high in protein for those looking to boost their protein intake. Since farmer cheese is popular across Eastern Europe, it was naturally a beloved food for Jewish immigrants from that region, and when they went looking for an equivalent to these old-world fresh curdled cheeses, most turned to cottage cheese. But the two are somewhat different, and if the texture of cottage cheese is not your thing, I suggest trying the more crumbly tvorog instead. But you do need to know how to use it!

When looking for farmer cheese, here are a few things to keep in mind. You can often find at least one option at a basic grocery store, usually in the“ fancy cheese” section, or you can venture into one of the Eastern European markets for a great selection. We have several here in Charlotte, including Diana Deli and A & A International Foods. Many farmer cheeses are sold in their solid or crumbled form and need some sour cream to make them mixable, as in the first recipe below. Depending on the type you choose and its dryness, you might want to adjust the amount

of sour cream. If you use cottage cheese, no sour cream is necessary, and definitely back off on the salt, as cottage cheese is quite salty. Tvorog tends not to be salted at all and can be quite bland on its own, so some added salt is necessary to get a good flavor. Lastly, note that European dairy products are generally sold with the fat percentage listed, so go with whatever you prefer.( 0 %, 5 %, 9 %, etc.) I like a full-fat dairy experience, but I know some don’ t. Ricotta is also a great alternative if you can’ t find tvorog.

Here are two recipes using farmer cheese to get you started. The first is a fresh, creamy, and crunchy spread that is just delightful in the summer. You can use almost any vegetable you like, but finely chopped radishes and green onions are traditional. In Poland, this spread( called gzik) is traditionally used to make open-faced sandwiches on brown bread, topped with anything from sliced summer tomatoes to smoked salmon. Who knows, maybe this is where lox and cream cheese come from. If you do make your way to Diana Deli at Galleria, they have delicious, hot, Russian-style bread for just a couple of dollars.

In Lithuania, a very similar spread( without the radishes) is traditionally served with steamed potatoes, which also makes a wonderful side for dinner. A sweet alternative would be to leave out the herbs / vegetables and use a tablespoon of sugar instead. Instead of savory toppings, garnish with grilled peaches or any kind of jam. Next, no conversation about cottage cheese in Yiddish cuisine is complete without mentioning cheese lokshen, a kind of unsweetened deconstructed kugel that comes together easily any night of the week. For a lower-carb alternative, this is delicious with sauteed cabbage in place of noodles.

1 cup dry farmer cheese ¼ cup sour cream( Greek yogurt can also be used) 1 tablespoon dried dill( or more if you can find fresh) 2 green onions, finely chopped 5 or 6 radishes, finely chopped Salt and pepper to taste

Country bread and sliced raw vegetables such as tomatoes and red peppers for serving. Other great toppings include smoked salmon or tinned smoked fish.

Mix all ingredients together in a medium bowl. It can be kept for 3 days in the refrigerator. When ready to serve, slice your favorite crusty bread( rye or brown bread is typically in Eastern Europe) and generously spread the cheese. Top with sliced veggies or smoked salmon and enjoy.

Charlotte Rouchouze, PhD is a local French teacher, food blogger, and beaded jewelry designer. Her blog about food traditions from around the world can be found at www. thechildrenstable. com. Contact her at charlotte. rouchouze @ yahoo. com.

Lokshen mit kaese( Cottage Cheese Noodles) 1 12 oz. package egg noodles 1 cup farmer cheese 1 onion, thinly sliced ½ cup sour cream 3 tbsp salted butter Salt and pepper to taste

In a large frying pan, heat butter and add thinly sliced onion over medium heat. Fry until golden, about 10 minutes. In