FEATURES
FEATURES
Media Haunts :
L ’ Escargot
Introducing Media Haunts : zoom-in ’ s spotlight on those places where you can do business and let your hair down at the same time . Our essential guide to finding out where ’ s hot , who you need to know to get in , and where the power tables are once you ’ re there
‘ My stripper flatmate ’ s Catholic mother is staying with us at the moment , so we ’ re pretending she works in the theatre and not mentioning that she ’ s sleeping with a magician .’ I ’ m eavesdropping at L ’ Escargot Club – a place where anything feels possible .
Coco Chanel , Princess Diana , Mick Jagger , John Gielgud : they ’ ve all hung out here over the years . Jonathan Ross used it to court his wife . One of Mumford & Sons had his wedding celebrations here just last week .
L ’ Escargot restaurant has been on this site since 1927 , serving classic French cuisine . You probably came in the 1980s or 90s , before it fell off the post-millennium ‘ in ’ list . It was acquired by Brian Clivaz ( Arts Club , Home House , Langan ’ s ) and Laurence Isaacson ( Chez Gerard ) in 2014 and is quietly climbing its way back on . Managing director George Pell explains : “ L ’ Escargot is often referred to as the ‘ Old Dame of Soho ’. However , when we took over , this couldn ’ t have been further from the truth . We spent a great deal of time and money restoring the building to its former glory . We are a group of romantics who saw one of London ’ s most iconic , historical restaurant brands under threat from the ever-changing tide of modern food trends in the capital .”
L ’ Escargot Club is a series of upstairs rooms . There ’ s a library , a private dining room that doubles as a meeting space , the Gatsby-esque
Grand Siècle that has the air of a speakeasy , and a boudoir that looks like it ’ s witnessed such decadence
L ’ Escargot Restaurant & Club 48 Greek Street , London W1D 4EF 020 7439 7474 that even the staff have to hide their giggles as they walk past . The art ’ s entertaining too : not in a flashy Hirst kind of way , but more like the collection of an eccentric uncle . An Andrew Logan piece here , a Peter Blake there . A Matisse and a Grayson Perry . Sadly the Picasso they had went with the previous owner .
So who comes here ? ‘ We embrace members from all professions and all walks of life ,’ explains Pell . ‘ People need to understand that we are a family . Our members ’ lunches on Wednesday encapsulate that – lawyer , next to florist , next to producer , next to wine merchant . It ’ s a melting pot .’ Great for parties too , with live music every Tuesday attracting fresh talent . The regular supper clubs with Laurent Perrier and Sipsmith are also worth checking out .
The club doesn ’ t have the glossy profile of other members ’ clubs in the area and that ’ s a large part of its appeal . You need to know about it . It feels safe : a sort of adult playground where you can get up to mischief and nobody ever need find out . Let ’ s be frank , isn ’ t that the cornerstone of Soho ’ s success ? L ’ Escargot is best summed up by its co-owner Isaacson : ‘ It is Downton Abbey meets French bordello .’
Head chef : James Tyrrell Head barman : Ozkan Sadikoglu
Eat : Escargots , obviously . They used to farm them in the basement . Six snails for £ 12 , which for an extra £ 2 can be flambéed at the table .
Drink : Laurent-Perrier champagne , £ 60 a bottle , or the ‘ Ooh La La ’ cocktail , £ 7
Membership : £ 450 per annum
Who to know : Managing director George Pell . He ’ s the key to membership and the sort of man you ’ d be happy to be seated next to at dinner .
Power tables : Table 30 , which looks over the front room . Or table 16 , with its two grand red armchairs hidden away in the back section of the dining room for private business .
zoom-in Winter 2016 | 19