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KATY FENTRESS
BETTER
WITH AGE
Katy Fentress is on her dream assignment as she visits Nairobi’s
Capital Club to sample Kenya’s finest Morendat dry-aged beef.
“Think of a cut of beef as a piece of
fine wood: the marbling, the texture,
the grain, you have to pay attention to the details if you really want
to understand its worth”. Brilliant
Mathelumusa, head sommelier at
Nairobi’s Capital Club, is giving
me an impromptu masterclass on
the secrets of aged beef. I look up,
struggling to tear my eyes from the
attractive sirloin steak that has just
been placed in front of me; I need to
pay attention to this.
It is any steak-loving, food-writing
person’s wet dream to be sent on
assignment to taste one of the best
cuts of beef in town. Capital Club, an
exclusive Westlands private members’ establishment, serves an aged
Morendat farm steak, which is held
in high esteem by all those lucky
enough to have sunk their teeth
into it. Seeing that over the past few
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