WristWatch Magazine #19 | Page 56

P o c k e t W at c h e s Roger Dubuis To mark its 20th anniversary, Roger Dubuis has launched a unique restoration project entirely dedicated to its Hommage collection: Millésime. As the name implies, it will mark each year with a special “vintage” in the form of a singular creation. Each will embody a wealth of restoration work on some of the most exquisite watch movements from the 19th Century that will be restored using historic crafts and upgraded to meet 21st century Poinçon de Genève specifications. Each reborn caliber will incorporate a perpetual calendar - either alone or joined by one or more sophisticated horological complications. The movement restored and upgraded/updated in the Roger Dubuis RD 181 was originally fabricated in the 1800s by the esteemed house of Jaeger LeCoultre – one of only two manufacturers that Roger Dubuis will cultivate for the Millesime collection, Audemars Piguet being the other. Now restored and reborn, the amazing caliber RD 181 is once again functioning as designed with a dual retrograde perpetual calendar, an on-demand minute repeater, and on top of all that a 60-minute single button chronograph. A singular piece of this caliber demands a singular price at $892,500. Five hundred and ninety components; 113 jewels, 5 differential systems and 4 flying tourbillon escapements do little more than mark the time on the Roger Dubuis Spider Pocket Watch. No celestial equations or moon-phases, no perp calendars, chronographs or minute repeater to sound the time - just the simple display of time (and a power reserve indicator.) Dubuis’ Spider and the caliber RD 101 within take the multi-tourbillon complicated for the sake of it to the next level. Although there is little extra information needing your attention on the dial, four twirling tourbs will be enough for the affluent collector to be enthralled and will mesmerize those lucky few able to own one for the substantial investment of $468,500. 56 Wristwatch | 2016