west palm beach magazine
B
uilt inside the gutted remains of the historic American
National Bank Building (also known as the former Morrison’s Cafeteria) at 114 South Olive Avenue in West Palm Beach,
Banko Cantina offers an upscale take on Northern Mexican
cuisine. The beautiful 1921 building has had a checkered past,
constructed on land once owned by city founder Henry Flagler,
the bank ran for many years, was abandoned for decades, then
became a Morrison’s Cafeteria to feed retirees, then was empty
for another 30 years. The imposing stone front and side street
location may have had much to do with it’s neglect.
Now new owner Sam Sanchez, who owns upscale eateries
in Chicago, has taken on the historic property, gutting it and
rebuilding all three floors with the main restaurant and tequila
bar on the ground floor. The space is pretty spectacular as
diners have become more sophisticated about the restaurant
interiors recently and theatrical dining halls are a main
attraction. This building has three levels, a 13,000 square-foot
restaurant on the double ceiling height ground floor, with 130
seats in the main dining room. The restaurant’s second floor
was designed especially for special events, including corporate
events and private parties with lush couches, a long bar against
the windows, a DJ booth and a dance floor. The 3,000 square
foot third floor, partially covered rooftop features a 90-foot bar
in the center, with 14-foot ceilings, seating for 150, along with a
kitchen serving lunch and dinner from a select menu starting in
the fall. The restaurant also features fourteen 60-inch televisions throughout for sporting events.
The ground floor uses reclaimed wood for the tabletops and
Chicago artist David Bozic, who blends fine art with street-style,
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wpb magazine
painted the glam Day of the Dead lady images on the walls
and columns. There’s even a fireplace illuminated with electric
candles in the ground floor lounge. Pierced, lattice work metal
chandeliers hang in multiple clusters from the ceiling, and the
front boasts huge double doors that open out onto the street.
The sultry night we dined there the doors were wide open yet
it was wonderfully cool and breezy inside thanks to smartly
placed blowers and fans. The helpful friendly tattooed staff
couldn’t have been nicer.
In a twist from most local Mexican eateries, the restaurant
features Northern style Mexican cooking and is inspired by Mr.
Sanchez’ childhood in Nuevo Leon, Mexico. An engaging and
ebullient host, Sanchez was happy to tell us the differences in
the foods and spices used as Mexican cuisine consists of many
different regional styles depending on the climate of the area.
Northern Mexico’s desert climate supports a large livestock
population that led to the region’s meat-based dishes.
The ranching culture’s historical use of wood fire and outdoor
cooking is what developed the distinct smoky flavors that
are the foundation of Banko Cantina’s extensive list of locally
inspired tacos, steak and mesquite-grilled skewers.
While the menu may be Northern Mexican, the ingredients are
locally grown and harvested produce and fish when possible.
Desserts are made in house – and they are spectacular but
more on that in a bit. The restaurant uses authentic imported
tortillas from the Northern region of Mexico. Sanchez has had
big success with his Chicago restaurants - John Barleycorn,
Moe’s Cantina, and Old Crow Smokehouse – and Sanchez was
recently awarded Restaurateur of the Year 2015 from
- premier lifestyle magazine in west palm beach