a bush etc... Shady and moist areas are best, if they are covered with fall leaves or cover plant then that ' s even better as this might have already attracted some native worms.
If there were fall leaves, remove the leaves to make place for the container and put them back around the container. For small cover plants just place the container over them( ask permission first).
Now your container in place, fill it with a 50 / 50 mix of shredded cardboard or newspaper and varied food scraps or horse / cow / goat / rabbit manure. Using a hose or a watering can, thoroughly wet the mix down and put the lid on.
Now all you need to do is check the moisture of the mix weekly or more often in drier / warmer areas. Depending on the conditions it might take several weeks or couple of months before you see a good number of worms in the trap. Once you notice some worms inside, you can either harvest them and move them to their new home but what I usually do is leave the container in place for one month. The wild worms will start mating and breeding in the container and cocoons will start showing all over the place. This is even better because juvenile worms will adapt better to a change of environment and will settle down instantly if they hatch in your compost bin rather than being moved from the trap.
But before you transfer the worms, do some identification or send photos to a worm farming group and ask for confirmation on the worms species. Your trap might have also attracted some deep dwelling earthworms which are not adapted to life in captivity and are best left in the garden where they do more good.
Now that you have some worms you can decide to leave the trap in place as an on-ground wild worms feeding station just like the Big Rotter. A worm tray used as trap
I filled this trap with only fall leaves and wet it down.
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