Wishesh Magazine November_2018 Wishesh Magazine November 2018 | Page 15

History and
Development of
Kalamkari Art
In ancient India, the art of
painting using organic colors
and dyes was very popular,
but this style of painting
originated at Kalahasti (80
miles north of Chennai) and
at Masulipatnam (200 miles
east of Hyderabad). The
paintings then used to depict
Hindu Deities and the scenes
from Hindu mythology.
Masulipatnam being a muslim
region, the weavers were
involved in the block printing
art whereas the artists from
Kalahasti practiced painting
Hindu mythological scenes.
textiles are literally painted
with pens made out of bamboo
and cotton, in Machilipatnam,
the line drawing done with
a pen is transferred onto
wooden blocks which are
carved and then used to print
fabric. In Machilipatnam,
the production is carried out
in karkhanas (commercial
workshops), where the block
makers, washers and printers
work under the same roof.
In Srikalahasti, the textiles
are produced by small family
units where the members
work together. This essay
discusses the history, stylistic
development, materials and
techniques of kalamkari
at both Srikalahasti and
Machalipatnam.
Fragments of Indian block-
printed cloth dating to the
late Roman period have
been discovered from
archaeological sites in Egypt.
However, the oldest samples
from the Coromandel Coast
itself are from 13th- 14th
century A.D
Srikalahasti is one of the most
important pilgrimage sites for
Hindus because of presence
of the Srikalahastisvara
temple, which is dedicated
to Lord Shiva. Historically,
textiles from Srikalahasti were
essentially used as canopies
and hangings that acted as
backdrops to the images of
the deities at the temple. The
themes of these paintings are
derived from Hindu religion
and also from nature— bird and
tree of life motifs abound. The
temple at Srikalahasti gained
prominence under the Pallava
kings (6th- 9th century AD),
and was further developed
during the Chola (9th- 13th
century AD) and Vijayanagara
(14th- 17th century AD)
Empires.
The textiles produced in
Machilipatnam were meant
for clothes, prayer mats,
bedspreads, tapestries
and hangings. The printing
techniques used to produce
these textiles helped in mass
production. The motifs from
Machilipatnam are often
cross-cultural and combine
local motifs with those derived
from Persia and Europe.
Machilipatnam, was a busy
port during the late medieval
period. The port was especially
bustling from the 15th-17th
century A.D. As the textiles
produced in Machilipatnam
were free from any kinds of
cultural or religious restraints,
they displayed varied imagery
starting from stylized plants,
creepers, geometric designs
to animals and human figures.
These representations are
important sources for the study
of the contemporary social
scenario.
The styles of
Kalamkari Paintings:
1- Masulipatnam Kalamkari:
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