W
L
THE FOREST SIDE
by Carl Housbey
Apparently, the Lake District attracts over 18 million visitors
a year, and I think on my recent visit to The Forest Side I
was behind every one of them driving past Windermere.
Fortunately, the slow-moving traffic gave me plenty of time to
admire the stunning scenery, and helped build the anticipation
for what I knew was going to be another amazing meal.
You see, I have eaten Head Chef Kevin Tickle’s food many
times before, not just at The Forest Side, but at other venues as
well, including L’Enclume in Cartmel where I was privileged to
spend the day foraging with him for the ingredients to make my
dinner - an experience I will never forget. Kevin is Cumbrian
born and bred, and has spent his whole life exploring the forests
and lakes building up an almost encyclopaedic knowledge
of the local flora and fauna, as well as learning how the best
flavour can be extracted from each ingredient before combining
them on the plate to maximum effect.
The style of food served at The Forest Side is clean, modern and
precise, and absolutely packed with flavour, so it’s no surprise
whatsoever that they were awarded a Michelin Star in October
2016 after only being open for just over six months. Kevin has
built an excellent team around himself in the kitchen, including
Sous Chef Martin Frickel who earlier this year received an
Acorn Award, which is something only given to the Top 30
under 30. I was here for lunch this time, and I had to choose
between the four course “Bait” menu, or the six course “L’al
‘Un”, and it goes without saying that I went for the six course.
These are the kind of sacrifices that I make for the loyal readers
of Wirral Life magazine, plus who could resist another two
courses of outstanding food, not me.
38 wirrallife.com
Lunch started with several exquisite snacks, and a small loaf of
warm freshly baked bread with lightly whipped butter. Then it
was straight into the first course of pigs tail with coastal greens,
apple honey and a side of seaweed broth, this dish was so tasty it
left me wishing that pigs came with more than one tail.
Next was a duck heart salad, with horseradish and burnt
kale, which gives it that lovely crunchy texture with a slightly
nutty flavour. This was followed by a precisely cooked fillet of
lemon sole that was still wonderfully moist and delicate, with
the impression that it had been plucked straight from the sea
reinforced by the accompanying mussels and marsh herbs.
Main course was a melt in the mouth piece of aged shorthorn
beef rib with golden chanterelles that had been cooked in bone
marrow to leave them with that slightly sticky lip smacking
richness, and some umbelifers on the side – I will leave you
to Google that one yourself. The pair of desserts that followed
captured the taste of British fruit superbly, first strawberry,
clotted cream and apple marigold, then blackberry, douglas
fir and cobnut, both dishes were fabulously fresh and mouth-
wateringly delicious. If you’ve still room after eating all that
then I suggest you go for the optional extra cheese course which
allows you to choose from a fantastic array of UK cheeses
sourced by Courtyard Dairy, that are served at the perfect
ripeness with homemade crackers and chutneys.
For more information click www.theforestside.com or to make a
reservation call 01539 435250.
Follow Carl on Twitter @carlhousbey.