“ Port Ruighe doesn’ t have an age statement and smoke comes in a sophisticated way. Sweet peat, light, fruity and salty notes.”
THE WHISKY CONNOISSEUR
BY DAVID GREEN, THE RED FOX
Talisker is a single malt Scotch whisky distillery located in Carbost, on the Isle of Skye, which is situated off the north west of mainland Scotland and is renowned for its rich, varied landscape.
From its soft, serene shores to the dark, jagged peaks of the Cuillin mountain Skye is the largest island in the Inner Hebrides archipelago, it has an indented coastline of peninsulas and narrow lochs, radiating out from a mountainous interior, with a population of around 10,000. Talisker is the only distillery on the island and has a rich history of producing quality malts and perhaps can lay claim on being one of the most remote distilleries of all, but yet is known and loved world wide.
Originally founded in 1830, the distillery was rebuilt in 1960 after a still house fire completely destroyed the distillery. The malts produced there today are most frequently associated with a smoky sweetness, perhaps a little medicinal with maritime notes and a spicy edge and are usually matured in American oak casks. Their tagline is appropriate for a distillery representing the Island region of Scotch whisky:‘ Made by the sea.’
They mainly use a malt which is peated to a phenol level of approximately 18 – 22 parts per million( ppm), which is a medium peating level giving the light smoky flavours.
The water is also really important for the flavour; it comes from over 21 springs directly above the distillery via a network of pipes and wells and flows over peat, which adds additional complexity to the whisky.
Though the whisky distillery is far from large, its capacity is rather modest by comparison but they are not short of accolades and awards, winning‘ Best Single Malt In The World’ more than once and far to many other awards to name here – but it’ s fair to say they must have big trophy cabinet; it’ s also claimed that Talisker was the favourite whisky of writer Robert Louis Stevenson.
Talisker produce a range of malts including the flagship‘ 10 year’ which has lots of spice and thick tangy peat which is probably the flavour profile most people think of when Talisker is mentioned; however look beyond this expression and you will find many variations on flavours including; the no age statement‘ Storm’ which is not as abrupt as the 10 Year, quite creamy by comparison;‘ Skye’ which uses more toasted casks to give a much sweeter and less peaty flavour, there is also’ 57 degrees north’ which is bottled a cask strength and then the pretty amazing‘ 25 year’ which is smooth with sweet wood & vanilla notes.
My personal favourite is the no age statement, Port Ruighe( pronounced‘ Port Ree’) this is quite a bit different from the rest of the Taliskers on the market as it has been double matured in Port casks imparting a new dimension to this Isle of Skye single malt.
Alongside the distillery style there are similarities with the thicker, oilier mouthfeel and wood smoke. Port Ruighe has taken on additional characteristics from the Port casks however, adding sweetness and different notes such as plum and chocolate. Those port casks have definitely had their influence on the nose. So much so that, bar some citrus, the classic Talisker traits are hardly recognisable.
Port Ruighe doesn’ t have an age statement and smoke comes in a sophisticated way. Sweet peat and light fruity and salty notes.
I get mostly dark fruit prunes, dates and a hint of cranberries and chocolate. The peat wants to shine, but is not given the chance. Although there is a medicinal touch in there somewhere, perhaps a pinch of salt and a leaf of mint this is a pretty special dram and lovely to share with friends around a fire.
Available at The Red Fox or grab a bottle for £ 49.84 at www. masterofmalt. com wirrallife. com 31