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What about grape variety and style ?
Again , the wine list ticks another box here . There is nothing samey from one bottle to the next when it comes to grape variety . Obviously , with Rioja on the list , we have the world famous tempranillo grape on offer ( the grapes that make many of the ubiquitous red wines of Rioja and the equally infamous Ribera Del Duero wine region ). However , the red grape is also represented on the list by the carginan , syrah , grenache , malbec , monastrel , petit verdot , merlot and cabernet sauvignon grapes . White wise we have tempranillo blanc , viura , vedejo , albariño , chardonnay and sauvignon blanc and , of course with the cava , macabeau , parellada and xarel-lo .
Overall this is massively impressive for a wine list that only carries six white wines , six red wines , one rosado and three cavas . There are some grapes here , and blends too , that you wouldn ’ t normally associate with Spain . At the same time there are some equally great examples of wines made from grapes that you would expect to find in Spain . So , a really nice balance in this regard .
Is there enough to choose from ?
Are six white wines , six red wines , one rosado and three cava ’ s enough ? In my view there is a fine line between too much and too little . Too much can be confusing and can sometimes present a daunting task to the diner . It also means that quality can vary a bit too much as well . Too little can sometimes mean little choice . It can also lead to either wines of more or less the same type or quality or of widely differing quality . Not great , either way .
Restaurant wine lists are a delicate balancing exercise . There has , of course , to be something to match with all the food on offer . The list also has to be diverse and offer something for everybody . It also has to fit with the vision of the restaurant . The wine list at the Tapas Kitchen ticks all these boxes . It is diverse in terms of both grape varietal and wine producing region . There is genuinely something for everyone ’ s palate and for the food on offer . The balance is right . Importantly quality is not affected anywhere . Sure , some wines may be viewed as better than others by some ( but that , after all , is down to personal choice anyway ) but overall the quality is very good and sustained across the board .
Price and value for money ?
A key question . There are three wines at the top of the scale price wise - priced at £ 45 ( red from Priorat ), £ 55 ( white from Rioja ) and £ 75 ( sparkling from Penedes ). The mark up on these is , however , very reasonable and , if you want something special , each represents decent value for money . The fact that these wines are on the list at all , however , tells us something else . It tells me that there is a touch of ambition and class about the Tapas Kitchen .
Apart from these three , all the wines on the list are priced at between £ 18 - £ 30 a bottle . Importantly , all of these other wines are sold by the glass . Not only that , but you can choose between a 175cl or a 250cl glass . As I have said before , and for those of you who have been reading Wirral Life Magazine for some time , you may remember my interview with Oz Clarke . His advice was that when you go to a restaurant : “ Buy wine by the glass , not by the bottle . This way you can experiment and buy a number of glasses containing completely different wines . By doing so you won ’ t waste a bottle you may not like , and at the same time will have a number of chances of finding something that you do ”.
Overall the wines are very reasonably priced and provide value for money . The fact that you can choose most of the wines by not only the glass , but by two different glass sizes , is a welcome addition to a wine list in any restaurant .
The wines
1 . Whilst I did not try each of the wines on the wine list , many I had tried before . These included the most expensive red and white wine on the list . Firstly the red . From Priorat , this was Cuvee " Riu " from Trio Infernal - the brainchild of three of the Rhone Valley ' s most talented producers . It is a blend of carignan , syrah and grenache . It is a fruit forward , full bodied and fresh red wine . Redcurrant , wild red fruits and vanilla . The white is the Rioja Vega Tempranillo Blanco Reserva . Made solely from the tempranillo blanc grape , this is a rich and complex wine . Lovely fruit , a touch of honey and a hint of smoke – yet fresh and dry at the same time . This is a wonderful white wine .
2 . The most expensive wine on the list is the sparkling Agusti Torello Mata Kripta . From the Agusti Torello Mata stable , one of the most prestigious sparkling wine producers in Spain , comes this wonderful cava . Their Kripta is known as their ‘ cult ’ cava and is often seen as a wine for collectors . It is an outstanding , elegant , wine made from a blend of macabeu , parellada and xarel-lo from old vines . Light , crisp , ripe fruit with toasty , vanilla notes and creamy at the same time – and all in a uniquely shaped bottle . Whilst expensive , at £ 75 a bottle , it is actually very reasonably priced for this wine .
3 . From the remainder of the list I picked three wines to taste , to give me an idea of the quality of the rest of the list . Many of the other wines were , though , familiar ones to me . The first of the wines tasted was the Goru from Ego Bodegas . Its backbone is monastrell , with the blend being made up with some syrah and petit verdot . It is a heady , beautiful , wine with a label to match . Creamy , vanilla and red ripe fruit . This is a classic example of some of the amazing red wines coming out of Jumilla at the moment . If you can find them , try some of the great wines coming from wineries such as the El Nido stable in Jumilla . These , and the Goru , are some of the best . The second wine tasted was the Irrepetible Malbec / Syrah from Bodegas Altolandon in Manchuela . A straight 50 / 50 blend of the two grapes , this is another impressive , but very different , wine . On this you almost get a bit of fizz . It is more savoury than the Goru with pepper , some sweet spice and some creaminess from the oak barrels . The fruit here seems darker too – black mature fruit . Yet , again , a great wine with an equally great , modern , label . Finally , the third was the Barinas Sauvignon Blanc . The first thing to say is that you do not , automatically , think of Spain and sauvignon blanc . So , this was a must . This wine comes from a small boutique winery , again in Jumilla . It was lovely and quite unlike the sauvignon blanc you will taste from other wine producing regions around the world . This was almost soft on the palate and full of ripe lemon notes . Despite this it was refreshing - and very easy to drink .
Overall
The wine list is small , but excellent . It ticks all the boxes it should – and more . There is genuinely something for all tastes , and at a reasonable cost . It is diverse both in terms of grape and region . Some thought has gone into this list and , on talking to Colin ( Managing Director at the Tapas Kitchen ), all the wines are actually tasted before being put on the list . It is not a case of a wine supplier saying - here , take this , and just stick it on your list .
Finally , I said I wouldn ’ t comment on the food , as it has been assessed by others last month . However , it would be remiss of me not to say this . The food is truly excellent . A decent range , including a vegan section , at affordable prices .
All in all the Tapas Kitchen is a great place to go and visit . The rumour that it had a smart and interesting wine list proved to be true . It is a wine list that is well worth exploring . Tapas and Spanish wines don ’ t always have to be consumed in Spain ! wirrallife . com 31