THE ART SCHOOL
by Nicky Rigby-Smith & Si Hall
We originally reviewed The Art School in the June 2017 issue.
Having just launched the new Autumn tasting menu, we
couldn’t wait to go back and indulge ourselves.
We were greeted by a bowler-hatted concierge and led through
to the delightful bar, tastefully blending modernity and period
grace. Seated in the light and airy atrium, we started with a glass
of Charles Heidsieck champagne (The Art School’s signature
champagne) with a selection of dazzling seasonal canapés,
including anchovy sticks, olives, deep fried pork bonbons with
apple puree, a hake frittata and a tomato and beetroot macaroon.
Torrontés is grown at the highest altitude ever -1700m+. Next
out was the sublime Breast of Red Leg Partridge with salt baked
turnip, parsnip puree, herb and toasted hazelnut crumb, natural
jus and confit apples. Well paired with a South Australian red
wine - John Doval, which was a combination of three grapes
(Shiraz, Grenache and Mourvedre) matured for 14 months. A
rich, medium bodied wine.
The savoury finale was the hearty Loin of Rhug Estate Fallow
deer, baby Navet, herb-infused Spunta potatoes, Girolles, damson
and pink peppercorn jus. Absolutely superb!
The amuse bouche was simply stunning. A celeriac and black
truffle volute with pickled apple & chopped shallots, exquisitely
presented in a teacup, which was sumptuously thick, along with
fillet of Menai Mackerel served with herb infused goats curd,
blood orange dressing and charred capsicum, just divine! This
was followed by a selection of fresh, homemade breads and salted
butter. Pre-Dessert arrived in a rustic bowl, yoghurt ice cream with a
pastry fritter and white chocolate soil. Refreshingly clean with
just the right amount of delicate sweetness.
Out next was the glorious Fillet of Peterhead Halibut with
a shaved fennel and crab salad, heritage tomatoes, smoked
aubergine puree and finished off with Oloroso sherry vinaigrette.
This was paired with a German Sauvignon Blanc, Oliver Zeter
2016, which had smoky oak notes, nicely suited to the fish. From the moment you arrive, the entire experience is perfectly
executed. The level of finesse is second to none; the skill and
attention to detail in all dishes is unrivalled in our region. Chef
Paul Askew and his carefully trained exemplary team have serious
talent, this truly is elegant fine dining at its very best.
Up next was Pan seared Loch Fyne King scallop with miso,
sesame wilted pak choi, pistachio crumb and butternut squash
puree. Outstanding! The combinations of flavours and textures
was wonderful. This dish was paired with an Argentinian wine
- Amalaya (2017 Torrontés 85%, Riesling 15%). Interestingly, 5 Stars, highly recommended.
38 wirrallife.com
Our final dish was the new season Claremont Farm strawberry
and soya milk ice cream with yuzu, chickpea meringue and
coconut cake. Beautiful in presentation and combination of tastes.
To book, call 0151 230 8600.