PANORAMIC 34
by Si Hall and Arthur Gold
Panoramic 34 has always been renowned for the highest quality in
everything they do, including the height of the restaurant - 300 feet
from the street.
As the name suggests you have a unique amazing 360 view of Liverpool
and the Wirral, which in itself is quite mesmerising.
Welcomed by the charming Maître d’ and Sommelier David Beaufort-
Dysart, we started with a glass of Gusbourne Rose, a delightful light
blush English sparkling wine, (even if you don’t like Rose, you will like
this) which really set the tone of what we were about to experience, we
were in the company of a team who really knew what they were doing.
When you read the imaginative menu, you think you’ve got a pretty
good idea of what flavours to expect. Wrong. Forget what you presume.
First out was Chef ’s selection of delicious canapés:
• Mushroom, Mushroom and more Mushroom - Consommé,
Gnocchi, Raw, Pickled.
• Chalk Stream Trout - Nasturtium, Potato, Radish, Black Garlic.
• Charred Beef Fillet & Onglet Tartare - Jerusalem Artichoke, Egg
Yolk, Bovril.
We’d heard the new Chef Elliot Hill was creative and ‘all about the
flavour’ no kidding, these were very inventive and tasted incredible.
For starters, first up was the Mackerel with Pickled Green Chilli,
Cucumber, Mint and Buttermilk. This was a really interesting combo
of contrasts, it totally worked. Very clever. Paired with a Torrontes,
Amauta Absoluto.
Slow cooked cackleberry egg, truffle, celeriac, celery. Very delicate and
perfectly prepared rare egg. Beautiful and packed with flavour. Paired
with a Sharpham, Pinot Noir.
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The Iced Salad. Burt’s Blue Cheese with Walnut, Red Apple, Celery and
Grape. This knocked me clean out, clean being the word. I love Waldorf
salad but this re-imagining took it to a different level, so fresh, such
bright unexpected flavours, I could literally eat this every day. Forever.
I felt cleansed. Do they deliver?
More playfulness arrived in the form of a beautifully buttery Halibut,
Scallop, Roast Chicken Butter Sauce, with a Fennel Hazelnut and
Chicken Skin Crumble. One word. Genius. Paired with an Albarino,
El Jardin de Luca.
Salt Chamber Dry Aged Goosnargh Duck, Salsify, Curd, Lovage. A
perfectly cooked moist piece of duck with a creative difference, the
lovage alone as an assistant took this into new territory, again another
surprise flavour sensation. Ambition well played. Paired with a Rioja
Reserva, Gomez Cruzado.
Sadly, our amazing meal was almost at an end, but not before we were
seduced by a Michel Cluizel Dark Chocolate Ganache, Malt Ice Cream,
Coffee and Hazelnut. Visually beautiful, indulgent and luscious.
Forced Yorkshire Rhubarb, Ginger Beer and Buttermilk. Another
genuine surprise of flavour collections, super fresh, excellent. Paired
with a ’Sticky Mickey’ New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.
Our favourite type of Chefs and Sommeliers are restless ones, they
can’t leave anything alone, constantly tweaking, experimenting, reverse
engineering flavours they stumble across, constantly honing their craft,
tirelessly, that’s clearly what we have here with the gifted Chef Elliot Hill
and the hugely knowledgeable and passionate Maître d’ and Sommelier
David Beaufort-Dysart.
This is exceptional food, done exceptionally well. 5 stars.
To book call Panoramic 34 on 0151 236 5534.