W
L
THE CURIOUS QUAFFER
BEYOND BURGUNDY
What do we all make of pinot noir – referred to as ‘the most
highly prized wine in the world’ in some quarters? I guess some
of us love it. I guess some of us don’t. I suspect some of us don’t
know whether we love it or not.
I have friends who have repeatedly told me that they are not a fan,
only to change their mind having been surprised when a quality
pinot was poured into their glass. Of course, like any wine, there
is the good, the bad and the ugly when it comes to pinot. As with
any wine the challenge is to weed out the bad and the ugly and
find the good. When you do carry out this exercise, as I have over
the years, you will not only find the good, but also the outstanding
when it comes to pinot. The truth is - don’t be put off if you have
had a bad experience with pinot in the past. I am sure we have
all experienced the odd bad bottle or two of pinot at some stage
during our lives. The reality is that there are some real treasures
out there.
Pinot noir is a thin skinned, pale, delicate and scented grape that
can be temperamental and is one of the, if not the, most difficult
grape variety to grow with any degree of success. It is a grape that
is not fond of too much heat. As a result we tend to find it grown
in many of the cooler climates, often coastal, dotted around the
world. However, as it is so thin skinned, it doesn’t like too much
rain either; so finding the right home for it is not easy. Yet when
grown successfully, and the wine makers get it right, there is
nothing quite like it. You can get, when it all comes together, one
of the most wonderfully rich and velvety smooth wines anywhere
on the planet. A wine that is wonderfully perfumed and fragrant.
A wine that is full of red berry and fruit flavours (often strawberry,
raspberry and cherry) and a wine that, with ageing, can become
even more silky smooth, more complex and which can sometimes
take on an almost vegetal edge.
As I suspect most people know, the pinot noir grape is the
classic grape that produces the great red wines of Burgundy (its
spiritual home) and also forms an important ingredient in many
champagnes and other sparkling wines. But this month I want to
take you beyond Burgundy and to some of the other regions of the
world which are producing world class pinots. Over a number of
years I have been actively seeking out, collecting and tasting some
outstanding examples of pinot from a variety of wine producing
regions from around the world. So, this month, I want to take you
to the States of Oregon and California in the USA, to South Africa,
to Australia and lastly, but by no means least, to New Zealand.
NEWTON JOHNSON FAMILY VINEYARDS PINOT NOIR
(2017) – this wine comes from the Upper Hemel en Aarde Valley
on the Cape South Coast in South Africa. It is one of the Cape’s
38 wirrallife.com
very best pinots. It is refined, ripe, delicious and elegant. It is bright
and vibrant to the naked eye. On the nose you get a rich aroma of
plums and strawberry, together with a hint of earth. On the palate
you get a juicy, almost fleshy, wine with strawberry, cherry and a
hint of spice to the fore. This is great stuff for a wine that retails
at around the £25 a bottle price (try the Wine Society or Simply
Wines Direct).
BYRON ESTATE ‘NIELSON VINEYARD’ PINOT NOIR
(2014) – from the Santa Maria Valley in California. Probably,
just by a short head, my favourite pinot. Seductive, ripe fruit,
beautifully proportioned and
wonderfully tasty. Aromas of
red/ wild fruit. Cherry, raspberry,
cranberry, strawberry, plum – a bit
of all sorts. Vanilla, a hint of spice
and a touch of earth come through
too. Stunning and beautiful. Again
a wine I have served to many
people over the years, indeed have
persuaded others to buy, with rave
reviews. My most recent purchase
of this wine was from D. Byrne &
Co in Clithroe (and they will ship
and deliver to you). Also available
from allaboutwine.co.uk. Again, depending on vintage, this wine
will set you back about £35 - 40 a bottle.
MAC FORBES ‘COLDSTREAM’ PINOT NOIR (2016) – this
comes from the Yarra Valley, Victoria in Australia. Ruby in colour.
Beautiful perfume in the glass. Again red berries are to the fore
on the palate - cherries, redcurrants and cranberries. You also get
some floral and herbal notes in a wine that has a pure, clean and
lingering finish. I found this wine at around the £29 a bottle mark
a while ago. The 2016 vintage is now on sale at around the £35 a
bottle mark (Stone, Vine & Sun) and the 2017 vintage at around
the £36 a bottle mark (theaustraliancellar.co.uk).
THE HILT ‘VANGUARD’ PINOT NOIR (2014) – this comes
from Santa Barbara County, Central Coast in California. This is a
sumptuous wine with soft fruit, lovely silky tannins and a beautiful
but not overpowering sweetness. It is a bright ruby coloured wine.
On the nose and palate you get red fruit – blackberry, raspberry,
plum and cherry. A touch of herb. It is seductive. I have given this
wine to many of my friends over the years (different vintages) and
all have been stunned by the wine. This will set you back some
£40 - £50 a bottle, depending on vintage, but is worth every penny
(currently available from Fine and Rare).