THE CURIOUS QUAFFER
THE WINE MAN
There are literally many thousands of them around the world. Some
are fantastic, some are average, whilst some are lacklustre and some
are poor. Yes, the restaurant wine list.
Behind every great restaurant wine list there has to be someone with
the knowledge and the know how required to create it. And so it is,
this month, that we welcome David Beaufort - Dysart to our midst.
Since 2012, for seven years or more now, he has been the Manager of
Panoramic 34 in Liverpool. As many of you will know ‘Panoramic 34’
can be found on the 34th Floor of Liverpool’s West Tower and, as well
as counting as one of the UK’s tallest restaurants, is a restaurant that
serves fine food with a wine list to match.
Having dined at Panoramic 34 myself on many occasions, and having
enjoyed many of their fine wines over a number of years, I thought it
would be a good idea to speak to the ‘brains’ behind the restaurants
wine list and to find out a little more about him. Everything to do with
wine at the ‘Panoramic 34’ emanates from him – from the wine list, its
creation and its ongoing review all the way through to the sourcing of,
the buying of and staff training about wine.
When you meet David you quickly realise you are talking to not only
someone who possesses a wealth of knowledge about his subject, but
also to a man who has a real passion for wine. He started his life many,
many, years ago as a trainee chef on board the QE II (as she then was)
and gradually worked his way through the ranks as a Silver Service
Waiter, as a Head Waiter and as a Wine Steward, all the way through to
holding many important managerial roles in hotels and restaurants all
over the world (including in Australia, Dubai and Bermuda).
So what lies behind this passion for wine? What stories does our ‘Wine
Man’ have to tell? What can he tell us about a life living with, and his
experience with, wine? I took it upon myself to find out. I asked of him
fourteen simple questions - no passes allowed:
What is your earliest wine memory and what got you into wine?
I suppose my earliest memory of tasting wine was probably the same
memory held by many people from my generation - the likes of ‘Blue
Nun’ and ‘Black Tower’! When I started in the hospitality industry in
the mid 1980’s, however, wine was a commodity that I felt I needed
to learn more about and also to, as importantly, enjoy drinking. Little
did I know, at this early stage in my career, that it would become a
serious passion of mine and, in many ways, has become something of
a lifelong study for me.
40 wirrallife.com
Is there one wine that got you into wine? If so, what was it?
Not the ‘Black Tower’ or ‘Blue Nun’. Looking back I suppose the wine
that started me off was a Californian cabernet sauvignon. I was on
a golfing trip in Scottsdale, Arizona. I was in my early twenties and,
whilst I did drink wine at this stage in my life, if I’m honest I probably
preferred rum or Bourbon whiskey. After a great day of golf we had
dinner at a Four Diamond Restaurant within the Scottsdale Fairmont
Resort. I scanned the menu and came across a wine I had heard rave
reviews about - ‘Beaulieu Vineyard’ (BV) Georges de Latour Private
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon’. It was very much over my budget at the
time; but I was celebrating a big win of $20.00 and, flush with cash, I
ordered a bottle. Something really clicked when I tasted it. It totally
changed my perception of wine. The sheer complexity and its lovely
flavours were incredible - blackberry’s, ripe black cherries, numerous
dried fruits, dark chocolate, liquorice and the intoxicating perfume
of cedar. Thinking back – maybe my taste buds just matured that day.
Who knows; but I have never looked back since.
What are the ingredients of and what makes a good restaurant wine
list?
Four things really. Firstly, you have to have enough variety to suit
all budgets. Secondly, you have to have wines that match the food
being served. Thirdly, I strongly believe that you should always have
a strong representation on any wine list from both old and new world
countries. Fourthly, having both what I would call the familiar and
the unfamiliar on a wine list is also important; don’t just go with the
old familiar household names when it comes to wine grapes, wine
countries and wine regions.
What part do you play in the composition of and the buying of the
wines for the ‘Panoramic 34’ wine list?
I am responsible for the wine list at the Panoramic – from beginning
to end. It is one of my many responsibilities. When I first started at
Panoramic 34 the list was very one dimensional, both in terms of price
and the regions represented on it. After I took over responsibility for
the list, we introduced different wines from all around the world,
especially from new world countries in the Southern Hemisphere.
The likes of Argentina, Chile, South Africa and Australia are now
well represented. We added many more entry level wines onto the
list, together with some top or high-end wines, from these particular
regions. We have a long-standing relationship with the team at Corney
& Barrow and have also just signed up for a wine program with
Boutinot who supply our newly opened French Bistro in Oxton called
‘Thyme’. In fact we are about to launch many new wines onto our wine
list. It is always work in progress – so keep an eye out for all our new
wines as and when you visit us next!