Wirral Life Issue 81 | Page 44

W L
THE CURIOUS QUAFFER
ANTINORI AT HILLBARK
On the Wirral we boast Britain ’ s smallest 5-star hotel . If not enough , as an accolade in its own right , the hotel also boasts two 3 AA-Rosette restaurants . It is difficult to pick between them . For me , dining in the cellar at the Hillbark Hotel and Spa in Frankby , on the Wirral , is the pick . This is not a pick based on the quality of the food served in the two restaurants ; far from it . It is a personal choice based on the fact that you end up dining surrounded by one of the best wine collections you will find anywhere in the UK .
For all that the Hillbark Hotel and Spa has to offer , and there is much on offer , one thing that it does provide for us here in the northwest is the opportunity to attend a dining experience based around wine . Periodically it hosts wine themed and winemaker ’ s dinners . At many of these representatives of some of the world ’ s most famous wineries attend to show off their fine wines , each paired with a bespoke menu . They are , simply , fantastic occasions .
The most recent of these extraordinary dinners was a winemakers dinner hosted by the hotel with Luca Soldo . I was lucky to attend . Luca is a brand ambassador for Antinori . For those who don ’ t know , Antinori are arguably the most famous name in Italian wine . The Antinori family has been involved in the production of fine wines since 1385 when Giovanni die Piero Antinori became a member of the Arte Fiorentina dei Vinattieri ( the Florentine Winemakers ’ Guild ). Since then , and now some twenty six generations of the same family later , Antinori produce some of the best and most sought after wines in the world . Based in Florence , their influence in the world of fine wine has been for some time , and continues to be , revolutionary . It is no exaggeration to say that their innovations played a large part in the ‘ Super Tuscan ’ revolution of the 1970s . Their wines now not only come from different countries , but from different continents .
Antinori ' s flagship wine is ‘ Tignanello ’. It first appeared in 1971 and caused a sensation by its use of Cabernet Sauvignon in a Sangiovese blend . Its most expensive and sought after wine is ‘ Solaia ’, a Cabernet Sauvignon dominated blend . It is stunningly rich . Both wines are iconic , world famous , fine wines . Yet there is so much more to enjoy from the Antinori stable ; as everyone who attended the Antinori winemakers ’ dinner recently found out . So here goes – the run-down of this wonderful event .
FIRST COURSE Egg , custard and black truffle
This was served with Antinori ’ s Bocca Di Lupo Fiano [ 2021 ]. In 1998 Marchese Antinori purchased the 140-hectare Bocca di Lupo estate . It is found in the Castel del Monte DOC , in Puglia .
This wine is made from 100 % Fiano grapes . These grapes are ancient in their origin and have a history stretching back to the Roman Empire . On the nose you get aromas of white peaches , orange blossom , a hint of vanilla and floral notes . On the palate the wine was beautifully fresh with lovely minerality .
SECOND COURSE The bread course with treacle , butter and yeast extract
This was served alongside Antinori ’ s Napa Valley A26 Chardonnay [ 2021 ]. So , pretty quickly , we moved from Puglia in Italy to the Napa Valley in California . This was another fresh wine full of ripe fruit . In many ways a classic example of Californian Chardonnay . The wine was fermented in new French oak barrels . This gave the wine a little richness , with vanilla notes and an almost toasty feel . Still the fruit came through … apple and citrus fruits . An elegant wine .
THIRD COURSE Ox cheek , Roscoff onion and chive
This was served with Antinori ’ s Badia a Passignano [ 2019 ]. This wine is made exclusively from the finest Sangiovese grapes which are harvested from its namesake vineyard located in the heart of the Chianti Classico region in Italy . The wine is aged in the historic , tenth century , cellars under the Badia ( the Abbey ) of Passignano . Deep ruby in colour with bucket loads of black and red cherries on the nose and on the palate . Couple this with a bit of spice , some vanilla and a hint of sweetness … there is a lot going on here . I know this wine of old . It is classic Chianti Classico and a wine that will last for years and years . Fabulous .
FOURTH COURSE Scallop , apple and nasturtium
This was served with Antinori ’ s Conte della Vipera [ 2022 ]. This wine comes from the Castello della Sala winery in the Umbria region of Italy , not far from the Tuscan border and about 18 kilometres from the historic city of Orvieto . The wine is produced from a careful selection of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon grapes . On the nose you got floral notes , ripe fruit and citrus . On the palate there was more than a hint of pineapple , perhaps grapefruit and some apricots . This was a wine with a slightly tropical feel ; but beautifully fresh and crisp .
FIFTH COURSE
Hen of the woods , mushroom gel and mushroom velouté served with Bocca Di Lupo Fiano [ 2021 ].
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