W L
TRAVEL
THE BATTLEFIELDS OF ISANDLWANA AND RORKE ’ S DRIFT
Ann Anglesea of Delmar World reflects on her recent visit to South Africa .
I ’ ve been reflecting on my recent visit to South Africa and trying to decide what part was the highlight of the three week adventure .
There was the fantastic experience of exploring the outstanding Grootbos Nature Reserve , overlooking the beautiful rugged coast of Walkers Bay where the Southern Right Whales can be seen from the shore . Then there was the sheer indulgent luxury of the Rovos Rail journey from Cape Town to Pretoria - amazing ! So too was the incredible Mont Rochelle Hotel in Franschoek where the food and wine-tasting experiences were outstanding .
But , in the end , I knew it had to be my stay at Fugitive ’ s Drift Lodge : a very special place set in a 5,000 acre Natural Heritage Site adjacent to both Isandlwana and Rorke ’ s Drift and including the site where Lieutenants Melvill and Coghill lost their lives attempting to save the Queen ’ s Colour of their regiment .
On our first full day , we headed out to Isandlwana in a Range Rover with our knowledgeable guide , Alistair , whose easy-going nature made him seem more like a family friend . First of all , we looked down from the hill over which the Zulu attack was launched onto the plain where the battle took place as Alistair explained the strategies of the opposing armies . He then drove us into the World Heritage Site and set up three chairs in the shade of a tree where we sat with mugs of coffee and homemade biscuits for over an hour ( maybe two - the time flew by ) whilst he told us all about the battle and how it unfolded . We were mesmerised by the remarkable story of the great Zulu victory and took time to walk to the cave where the last brave - and , sadly , unknown - British soldier died . The many cairns - piles of white-painted stones - around the battlefield mark where the bones of British soldiers were gathered together ( the ground was too hard to dig graves ).
On our second day we visited Rorke ’ s Drift - the scene of one of the most heroic actions in the history of the British Army . This time , our equally knowledgeable guide was Douglas - the son of the owner of Fugitive ’ s Drift . As I walked around the site and into the reconstructed hospital building , listening to Doug ’ s insightful stories about the individuals whose incredible bravery and determination was hard to imagine . I felt truly honoured to be there and to understand and appreciate the enormity of their plight - albeit without the danger ! It is incredible to think that just 139 British troops - many of who were hospital patients - successfully defended their position against a force of around 4,000 Zulu warriors , winning more Victoria Crosses than in any other single battle in history .
The battle of Rorke ’ s Drift was immortalised by the 1964 film “ Zulu ” - starring a young Michael Caine - and in 1979 the battle of Isandlwana was portrayed by the film “ Zulu Dawn ”.
The Battlefields can be visited from Durban and incorporated into a longer itinerary to South Africa . But , whether you are a real history buff or simply a curious traveller like me , the Fugitive ’ s Drift experience is one that you really should not miss : it will remain one of my travel highlights for years to come .
Top Tips :
• Hire a 4 x 4 for the drive to Fugitive ’ s Drift as it involves a lot of inclines and some rough tracks
• Make sure you stay at least two nights otherwise you will not see everything
• Take warm clothing as some of the tours start early before the sun warms the atmosphere
• Read about David Rattray - the “ White Zulu ” who founded Fugitive ’ s Drift - and his legacy
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