W
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THE CURIOUS QUAFFER
CHARLES HEIDSIECK AT THE ART SCHOOL
For those of you who enjoy fine champagne and fine food – this was
one for you! An occasion where two worlds collided. On the one
hand the world of great sparkling wine. On the other the inimitable
fine food from Paul Askew and his team at the Art School restaurant.
The Art School restaurant, on Sugnall Street in Liverpool, hosted “An
evening of Gastronomy and Fine Champagnes”. This, for some five
years, has been an annual event at the Art School; an establishment
that carries on its wonderful wine list all of Charles Heidsieck’s
Champagne wines. The evening is, actually, one of a number of events
held each year by Paul Askew and his team and at which a variety of
fine wines are matched with his delicious food. Look out for them –
they are fabulous events and are all well worth attending. Quality and
creativity to the fore. If this article whets your appetite, but you missed
out this year, there is always next year for this ‘champagne dinner’.
Keep your eyes on the Art School website!
From the Reims region, Charles Heidsieck is one of most admired
Champagne houses in France thanks to the unrivalled and consistently
high quality of its wines. The house was founded in 1851 by the French
champagne maker Charles Camille Heidsieck; a man who became
known as ‘Champagne Charlie’. Year after year the house has received
countless awards and accolades for its wonderful range of vintage and
non-vintage cuvées.
Those of us who were lucky to have attended the evening, we were
treated to the following:
ROSÉ RÉSERVE NV (FROM MAGNUM)
This was served with: ‘A selection of canapes and charcuterie’. On the
nose a lovely delicate scent of strawberries, even a touch of peach.
On the palate strawberry, raspberry and a touch of cream. The Rosé
Réserve is pale in colour, refreshing, delicate and sumptuous. A great
way to start the evening.
BRUT RÉSERVE NV
This was served with: ‘Cold smoked chalk stream trout with celeriac
remoulade, Attailus Royal Siberian caviar, beetroot carpaccio and
compressed dill pickled cucumber’. Pale gold with very fine bubbles,
this wine was sophisticated, complex but harmonious. It had a rich
biscuit, almost pastry, flavour to it - all combined with distinctive hues
of citrus, apricot and melon.
BLANC DE BLANCS
This was served with: ‘Pan roast Peterhead hake with Southport
smoked pork, mussels, haricot blanc puree and Chardonnay beurre
blanc’. Again pale gold. On the nose it was very much a mature
chardonnay. For those of you who are not aware (although I suspect
many of you are) ‘blanc de blancs’ simply means ‘white from whites’
as the wine is made purely from white grapes; normally, as here, from
the chardonnay grape. You get wonderful minerality on the palate,
combined with citrus notes and a hint of apple. It was wonderfully
fresh, but balanced, had a degree of richness and a velvety texture.
According to many this embodies the recognisable 'Charles style'.
MILLESIME ROSE 2005
This was served with: ‘Confit shoulder and hay roast loin of Highland
Red Deer venison with white truffle, Scottish chanterelles and
parsnip fondant’. This was a seriously impressive Champagne with
a floral character. In the glass it looked wonderfully elegant. A nose
of ripe fruit, particularly raspberry, combined with a hint of butter
and cream. A palette of warm strawberries and honey. This wine had
an intenseness, roundness and lushness to it – but at the same time
remains soft and smooth. Great credit to the winemaker, here, for
making a truly elegant and sumptuous wine.
BRUT MILLESIME 2008
This was served with the cheese course: ‘Tunworth, ragstone goat’s and
Colston Basset Stilton with honeyed fruits, almonds and fruit bread.’
The Charles Heidsieck website itself extols this as a ‘plush, sumptuous,
powerful’ wine. That it is. Golden yellow in colour, with a nose of citrus
and nuts. On the palate you get wonderful citrus notes, apple, flowers
and even a touch of caramel. This fruit here is delicate. The bubbles
are almost creamy themselves. Everything is in perfect harmony here.
Today we have so much choice when it comes to sparkling wines from
around the world, including from champagne. However the wines
from the Charles Heidsieck stable are really at the top of the tree when
it comes to this market. All its sparkling wines are elegant, indulgent,
balanced and pure. One thing that really struck me about all the wines
was how subtle and soft the bubbles were. I often find the bubbles, the
‘fizz’, almost overpowers the wine. Not here.
The sparkling wines from Charles Heidsieck are worth seeking out
and are certainly something to consider for a special occasion –
and, of course, Christmas is on the horizon! Even if not for home
consumption, look out for their lovely sparkling wines on restaurant
wine lists when you eat out. If nowhere else – go and indulge yourself
at the Art School. You will find that the food there is in the same class
as the champagne.
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