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Enough said then? For most decent establishments – yes. For
the Bull, though, no! Why? Well, there is more on offer. On
the drinks menu you will also find the words: “Explore our full
cellar! Ask to see our additional list of fine and rare wines.” Here
the Bull really is unique. We now move on, and up, to a different
level altogether. If you take the bait, and ask for this ‘additional
list’, a leather bound tome will arrive at your table! Over the
years the owner of The Bull, David Robertson, has collected an
array of superb fine wines from all over the world. They are not
wines that have been peddled by a wine supplier, nor are they
wines that he has been forced or coerced into buying. They are
the choice of a man that knows his stuff. A personal collection
in many ways.
I confess that I have not tried all of the wines on this ‘additional
list’ – there are some 174 bins to choose from (12 of them
involve a selection of half bottles)! I have, however, dipped into
this list on occasions and have, elsewhere, tasted many of the
wines on it. It is a remarkable collection of some of the world’s
finest wines. You would have to travel a fair distance from
Beaumaris to find a wine list like this. Even better – they are all
priced very reasonably too in terms of their mark up.
Where do I start with 174 bins of fine wine? Very difficult, if
not impossible, to do justice to here. To whet your appetite,
however, here are some of my headlines:
REDS
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1996 (one
of the iconic Bordeaux Château’s the world over; wine from
one of the better vintages from the last 30 years; cassis, dark
fruit, tobacco, herb, soft tannins; beautifully integrated and all
that you would want from a truly world class claret); Domaine
du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf–du–Pape 2006 (wonderful,
wonderful CNDP from one of the appellations best producers;
world class, elegant, silky; plumy, cherries, blackberries and a
touch of the rustic perhaps); Barolo ‘Sori Ginestra’ Conterno
Fantino 2008 (rounded tannins; complex; brilliant Nebbiolo
fruit; classic Barolo with a touch of earthiness); Vina Ardanza
Reserva La Rioja Alta 2008 (classic Rioja; great balance with red
fruit, and wonderfully soft, integrated, tannins; almost juicy; a
great ambassador for the tempranillo grape; great wine at a snip
really); Henschke ‘Mount Edelstone’ Shiraz 2010 (for those of
you that don’t know, and from Australia, Henschke is one of
the world’s best, and most iconic, wineries – and this is one of
its most iconic wines; cassis, dark black fruit, perfume; elegant
and refined with well-integrated tannins; truly stunning; if you
ever find this wine, whatever the vintage, have a go); Migration
Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Sonoma 2015 (smooth new
world pinot noir; warm, soft with wonderful vibrant red berries;
classic Russian River Valley pinot noir); Le Cigare Volant Bonny
Doon Vineyard Santa Cruz 2007 (this is a new world Rhone
blend from California; warm, complex and spicy; chocolate and
dark fruit; great stuff from a great producer).
WHITES
Pouilly Fume Château Favray 2017 (a great example of the
brilliant wines that can come from the Pouilly sur Loire region;
old world sauvignon blanc at its best; a wine with ripe fruit, but
with that flintiness and freshness you would expect to find in
such a wine); Hermitage Guigal 2004 (from the world famous
Guigal stable and from the prestigious Hermitage appellation
in the northern Rhone valley, we find this wonderful bone dry
but rich white wine; vanilla, honey, yet savoury too); Riesling
‘Cuvee Theo’ Domaine Weinbach 2014 (a great Riesling from
Alsace; crisp and complex; pineapples, apple, lemon and herb
notes); Toscana Vermentino IGT La Spinetta 2016 (referred
to by some as Italy’s ‘sleek and sexy seaside white wine’
vermentino is a great wine to enjoy with seafood or pasta; this
is a great example, again from a renowned producer; decent
fruit, minerality; refined); Firesteed Pinot Gris Oregon 2014
(there are some great wines coming out of Oregon these days
– keep an eye out for some of the pinot noirs coming out of
the Willamette Valley; anyway, this white has a touch of the
floral to it; melon and citrus fruit); Greywacke Wild Sauvignon
Marlborough 2014 (this is one of my favourites; New Zealand
sauvignon blanc at its very best; citrus, grass, herbs, minerals
– everything; it is a tremendous wine – whatever the vintage).
Those who have read my articles involving wine, over a number
of years, will know that I have written about a number of
restaurant wine lists – and always in a positive fashion. I do
not, and will not, however write about wine lists that do not,
in my view at least, come up to scratch and are, therefore, not
worth talking about (and there are wine lists out there like this,
believe me). Often the wine lists that I write about are not ones
containing what could, in any way, be described as ‘fine’ wines
– but they do contain decent, smart, wines which are a good
match for the food on offer. The ‘entry level’ wine list at The
Bull (if I can call it that) is a classic example of such a wine list
and certainly ticks all the right boxes in this regard. But the The
Bull goes way beyond providing decent, smart, wines which are
a good match for the wonderful food it serves up in its casual
little restaurant. The ‘entry level’ wine list is supplemented by a
truly world class fine wine list.
Anglesey is a wonderful place to visit. One of its great treasures
is Beaumaris. One of the towns gems is the Bulls Head Inn. Two
of the Inns great treasures are its drinks menu and its fine wine
list. It is unique in what it provides in this regard. It is a special
place. If you are visiting Anglesey or North Wales pay The Bull
a visit. It is also within striking distance for us, here in the north
west of England, for a day trip. Booking ahead is recommended.
Even if you don’t like wine – it is well worth the visit. As well
as its leather bound fine wine list, it has an equally impressive
leather bound whisky and brandy list too (again available on
request). The draught Bass is wonderful too – as are so many
other things.
What it must be like to be one of those ‘old codgers of
Beaumaris’? As they say in Wales – “iechyd da” to them! Lucky
old codgers!!
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