Winter Issue - January 2022 | Page 103

On a fresh autumn morning in 1992, I walked up the stairs of

London’s Central Saint Martins School of Art on Charing

Cross Road and into the textile studio. It was the beginning

of my first year and on that day we started the colour course

taught by the painter Garth Lewis. Structured closely around

the Bauhaus colour theory course taught over 70 years

earlier by Johannes Itten, Paul Klee and Josef Albers, it

became the corner stone of almost everything I would create

afterwards as an artist. One day a week for the following

year I hand painted in gouache, creating thousands of small

squares by mixing and adding colour as I went – collating a slow, internal library of understanding about how colour interacts and shifts through hue, chroma, and saturation. At that time there was almost no pre-dyed thread available in the textile department; if you wanted to use colour in your work, you had to dye it yourself. As my life as a professional weaver took shape over the next five years, I realized that colour and dyeing was going to be an intrinsic part of my life. I had been told rather bluntly the previous year — in my art foundation course – that I was a ‘terrible painter; but a girl and good with colour.’ By consequence I was encouraged to study textile design, rather than fine art. It was a crushing blow at the time, but unexpectedly advantageous in the long run.

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