We arrived at Marco-Polo Airport to a bracing wind
and bright sunshine. Marco-Polo is a no-nonsense
airport and quite convenient to the city. The best
thing about it is the cheap and easy access to Venice.
Water taxis by Alilaguna leave frequently from the airport
dock and tickets are 16 euros per person. Once inside, it’s
a beautiful hour across the Venice Lagoon on the Blue
Line. Words fail to describe our excitement as the first
church spires and rooftops became visible through the
mist. When you arrive, I highly recommend exploring
the city on foot. However, if you find yourself in need
of transportation within the city, you have some lovely
choices. Gondola rides range in price from around 30
euros to 100 euros per hour or, you can always catch one
of the local water buses, otherwise known as the vaporetti.
Venice’s largest sestiere, we trundled off to meet our
landlord for the week, Alessia Manetti. We waited
for her in the square in front of the Basilica dei Santi
Giovanni e Pietro, shivering in the wind. I recognized
her immediately, striding along, a whirlwind of red
curls, colorful scarves and mismatched socks. She
introduced herself and announced that my scarf was
too flimsy for the Venice cold, took off the one she was
wearing and wrapped it around me. I loved her instantly.
The apartment we rented is a charming studio in an
ancient stone building. There is no wifi. The thick
stone walls block even the hint of a cell signal. The
one and only window overlooks a narrow alley and
features a clothesline on a circular pulley. At night,
we could hear the distant hum of boat motors coming
I studiously avoid hotels because they make me feel from the nearby canal. It is a warm, charming and
cramped and watched, so after our ride to Castello, cozy little place with everything our hearts desired.
Travel writers love to suggest that you “get lost” in places.
In Venice, prepare to get lost. Literally. For your own
good, and that of your loved ones, turn on your GPS.
Venice is full of narrow alleys, some of which end in
stone walls, small canals or the occasional front door.
Of the 391 bridges in Venice, we must have crossed 390.
Even with our navigation tool, we got lost more than
once. As a result, we found some of most magical little
corners of the city. No matter that would never find them
again. The city is a hive, a honeycomb full of life with
something new around every corner. Through every
twist and turn in the poetic labyrinth, a discovery awaits.
I had always dreamed of visiting the glass factories of
Murano, so we decided take an island tour. I highly
recommend it. Pick a sunny day, walk down to the docks
by Saint Mark’s square and find the ticket office. No
reservations needed, just buy a ticket and board the
Additional Photography: Tracy Pretorius
DECEMBER 2018
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WINTER GARDEN MAGAZINE |
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