Rock solid
A lot of canoes are tippy or have a tippy feeling, especially when the dynamics of fishing are involved. Standing up suddenly can cause panic to people in canoes. For good reason. I’ve seen it many times. Heck, I’m sure every time I go out with someone to this day, there is at least one moment when I, or the other person, think the canoe just might flip. LOL. It usually always produces a faint but distinct noise from one or both people in the canoe. I can say the Quetico 17 I own is as stable as a canoe gets for fishing thanks to it’s flat bottom design. Two people can chuck lures in opposite directions while standing at the same time with not one bit of wobble or feeling of impending doom. I’ve done this many times with good buddies, even with waves and winds kicking up. It’s also a good vessel for tripping. Again, all canoes are not created equal.
Anchor away
A 10 to 15-pound anchor is more the enough to keep most canoes situated on a particular spot in conditions with less than 20-km winds. The heavier you go, the more awkward it is to haul in over the side of a canoe. I have found 10 pounds to be the best fit. Strong wind gusts can still bump your canoe out of place, but for almost all conditions, a 10-pound round weightlifting plate is an excellent choice, and is what I use. It rarely gets snagged on bottom or on structure. It holds firm as well. I know people who have cut a rope and left an anchor in the water as they couldn’t get it loose while canoe fishing. It can be hard to get the right leverage to free a snagged anchor from a canoe. If you know conditions will be rough, bring a 15-pound anchor.
Putting the paddle down
Pushing the paddle is the way to move a canoe. If you like to push the boundaries, then getting an electric motor or small gas motor is something to consider. I have a 40-pound thrust electric trolling motor I use from time-to-time. It is more than enough power for my operations. I have a wood motor mount bracket that goes on and off the gunwales with ease. I also have a 2-hp motor and it fits on the same mount. A small motor opens up a lot of options for the canoe angler. I have used my trolling motor and canoe for decent walleye fishing for eight years. My friend and my canoe fishing bud since high school, Ryan, has a 1.2-hp motor. The thing has a prop like a food processor, but it moves a canoe, two guys and their fishing gear with ease. It’s loud LOL, but remarkable.
In backpack we trust
A fishing backpack is easily one of the best investments for canoe fishing. I have one from Bass Pro that cost under $40. It has worked wonders for eight years. Lugging all your tackle and other gear in a backpack is the best way to handle it. It keeps your hands free to carry other things such as the canoe!
Gear Ties
Get these rubber-coated wires if you plan to do serious canoe fishing, especially backcountry. I can’t stress their importance enough. These handy items are the absolute best at holding and storing fishing rods inside the canoe. Gear Ties are infinitely customizable, giving them the power to secure rods and other gear in the canoe. This is great for portaging, so you don’t have to take rods and reels apart and put them in a bag or rod storage container. They also hold paddles in place. The Gear Ties do everything. I have even used them as makeshift stringers numerous times.
Howdy partner
Not everyone enjoys fishing from a canoe. I’ve seen good buddies take hard bails, and although gut-busting funny, they don’t get in a canoe again. A day of fishing and portaging can batter up the body and make people sore as well. The dreaded “canoe ass” can really wreak havoc. A good canoe buddy can be hard to find. Something to keep in mind especially if you don’t like paddling a canoe solo. I actually don’t mind going out solo. I go before the sun comes up and catch the morning sunrise and soak up the atmosphere. Getting that moment is in my Top-3 favourite outdoors experiences.
Three season, multi-species tool
The canoe is a smart pick for spring, summer and fall fishing. With some work, you can get into some less pressured spots and, maybe, get onto a beauty bite. I use mine from ice out to ice up. It is an excellent option to chase any fish from walleye to trout to pike. It is my preferred way to go after brook trout and have accounted for my most memorable fishing experiences of all time. Not bad for a canoe.
In the thick of things
One of the most thrilling aspects of canoe fishing is how close to the action your really are. It is front row seats, pressed nose against the glass kind of thing. When you’re a few inches away from the water’s surface and mixing it up with a five-pound bass or four-pound brook trout, it’s up-close-and-personal awesomeness. Unlike 18-foot motor boats, getting leverage can be trickier in a canoe. Standing up is the clear option, but that can present some difficulties if the canoe isn’t stable or conditions dictate you keep your ass planted on the seat.
One of the more interesting aspects of canoe fishing is rod selection. Just kidding. It is a matter of preference. The number one factor is going to be your landing net. Make sure you buy one or have one with a telescopic handle. This allows you to compensate, in either direction, for a longer rod or a shorter rod. I use lengths from 5-foot-6 to 8-foot-6 when fishing from a canoe depending on what I am chasing. To not have an extending net is foolish. I’ve been using a Lucky Strike rubber mesh net for 10 years. I’m on my second one. I have no trouble landing a feisty ice-out speckled trout by myself with it. Trust me, I’m a bit haywire, so if this net system works for me it will work for just about anybody.
Safety net