Where Toronto May June 2018 | Page 23

Soufi’S It was only a matter of time before Toronto’s growing Syrian population would start to influence our restaurant scene. Beyond excellent espresso-based coffees and matcha lattes, they really only serve two Syrian specialties: knafeh, warm phyllo mini-pies of akkawi cheese or vegan cashew “cheese” finished with rosewater and crushed nuts; and manakeesh, pillowy flat- breads, smeared with halloumi, labneh, za’atar, or spiced beef, baked in the oven and folded into a sandwich. 676 Queen St. W., 647-350-7737; soufis.ca TenneSSee Tavern This Parkdale spot is Grant van Gameren’s interpretation of an Eastern European tavern—you wouldn’t guess from the name, a leftover from the last tenant. On the menu is an exhaustive index of sausages (heavenly kielbasa), schnitzel (paper-thin, crispy), pretzels the size of your head (warm, salty), cabbage rolls (oniony, saucy), and, in a nod to his principally hipster clientele, a paprika-dusted corn dog (delicious). This is hearty, gut-busting food, complemented by local craft brews and a long list of obscure eastern European liquors and liqueurs, all offered by the shot. 1554 Queen St. W., uncle Mikey’S Michael Kim was born in Seoul and raised in Vancouver, and studied classic French cooking at New York’s International Culinary Center—one of the best places to do so outside France. The low-budget, handyman interior of this, his first solo showing, belies the worldliness and polish of what he delivers to your table: lettuce wraps of grilled flatiron with nori, fermented soybean paste, and citrusy yuzo kosho; a mapo tofu of silken soybean cubes, the slow-build fire of Sichuan sausage, and a tangle of garlic shoots; brioche-like beignets that get their sweetness from a roll in a powder of wheat grass and carob; and, my top pick, Parisian-style choux gnocchi, tossed in a nutty sauce of soy- bean paste–braised oxtail. 1597 Dundas St. W., 647-648-9153 1/2 Price Appetizers DJ & Dancing Fri - Sat 416-535-7777; tennesseetavern.ca 215 Carlingview Drive Minutes from the airport! Lunch & Dinner Specials Food Til 2am 416.674.7772 - arizonabarandgrill.com May-June 2018 Arizona WT0116.indd 1 where 23 15-11-19 11:33 AM