of being a popcorn snob . I wear the buttery badge proudly .
My fascination began in my early years , long before you could nuke things , in bags or otherwise .
My father came home one day with jars of popcorn kernels packed in neonorange-colored oil , which he ’ d picked up somewhere . He often came home with odd food finds , such as smoked oysters ( disgusting ) and bottles of Roquefort salad dressing ( I would like it now but thought it smelled icky then ). I got a saucepan , dumped in a tablespoon of the mixture and went to work , shaking the pot back and forth on the electric burner . Results were disappointing – many kernels didn ’ t pop – and my mother declared that the agitation had ruined the bottom of her pan .
We tried Jiffy Pop , but the foil didn ’ t puff up like a hot-air balloon , as it did on TV . My mother declared Jiffy Pop a pricey bust , then got what was the state-of-the art at the time : an electric popcorn popper . Made from lightweight aluminum , it consisted of a bowl welded to a heating element , with a lid . It had no temperature control , other than unplugging it when it got too hot . The exterior could ignite a dish towel or sear fingers . Into that went the kernels-andoil combo . We still had several bottles of the stuff , and my family didn ’ t throw out things – we would use it or die . I even strained out some kernels and tried planting it , the first of many failed attempts to grow things , which my current yard can verify .
Before long , the popper charred marks in the red Formica kitchen counter . My mother chucked it in the trash , but its memory lived on in her periodic guilting about the damage .
After that , I indulged in popcorn only at movies , until college . One Christmas , in the name of dieting , I requested an air popper . I ’ d used the same excuse to get a blender for “ diet milkshakes ” which became a dorm daiquiri factory , so I knew the angle would work . In the 1970s , air poppers were big , pumping fat-free popcorn from a chute to fill a bowl in no time , if you remembered to put the bowl under it . The resulting popcorn resembled damp cotton balls , but was pretty good with melted butter poured over it .
Then came microwave popcorn , the snack which has triggered millions of smoke detectors in office break rooms . Popping popcorn is a seductive aroma . But there ’ s nothing nastier – including what emits from my cat ’ s litter box – than the toxic stench of oil , salt , fake flavors , preservatives and what was once popcorn going up in flames . Hazardous waste sites have smelled better and were less trouble to clean up .
But , wait ; there ’ s more . When throwing a paper bag of sludge in a microwave became too much work , companies started selling bagged popped popcorn . I see it flavored with powdered cheese , “ birthday cake ” seasoning , bacon ; even the malignant wave of pumpkin spice has swept over it .
Like coffee after Starbucks got a hold of it , popcorn has lost its way .
I urge returning to popcorn ’ s roots , the days when it was a simple , humble treat . It became associated with movies because of that . During the Great Depression , street vendors offered popcorn as an inexpensive snack , and as movies became popular , they began parking in front of theaters to sell to patrons . Theater owners saw a good thing and began selling popcorn themselves ; hence , the birth of the concession stand .
Let ’ s get back to the basics . The simple keys to good popcorn : kernels , oil , heat and agitation .
As with other vegetables – it is a vegetable , remember – there are different varieties of popcorn . Some types pop large and fluffy , others make small , tender bites ; some taste more “ corny ” while others have a slight sweetness . Kernel color ranges from white and yellow to red and purple , but the results are still white . Small farmers around the country are starting to grow specialty types . Indiana and Nebraska are the centers of popcorn farming . However , starting with supermarket kernels is OK . Don ’ t store kernels in the refrigerator or freezer because that will dry out the moisture inside them , which is essential for popping . An airtight jar or bag in the pantry is fine .
It ’ s a hot process , so use oil with a high smoke point , such as canola or grapeseed , my personal favorite . For olive oil , watch the heat carefully . Some people have used luscious duck fat , but I haven ’ t tried it . Don ’ t put seasonings in the oil – they ’ ll just burn . Season the finished popcorn instead .
You can start with a lightweight , nonstick saucepan and lid , as I did . A heavy pan , such as cast iron , will take too long to get hot enough to do the job . For next-level popcorn popping , get a WhirleyPop , which has been around since the late 1950s . It ’ s a deep lightweight aluminum pot with a metal rod inside and a crank attached to the lid . As the popcorn pops , gently turn the crank to keep the kernels moving , and when the popping slows down and the crank becomes difficult to turn , it ’ s ready . I can crank out a pot-full in the same time it would take to make that nasty nuked popcorn .
For any vessel , start with approximately equal amounts of kernels and oil – yes , you need that much oil to prevent burning . Use medium-high heat to make the moisture in the kernels steam and pop , which leads to popcorn . When you hear the first pop , start shaking or cranking , adjusting the heat if you smell scorching . Remove promptly when the popping stops . Season as desired , or not at all .
This process makes popcorn worthy of an Oscar-winning movie or a Tuesday night basketball game . When I want popcorn for any reason , I want it to be good . So I guess I am a popcorn snob .
I did try the dentist-office popcorn , and it wasn ’ t bad . For nuked stuff . However , there were a lot of unpopped kernels .
Now I see the plan : for unwary bites to keep their business popping . ❖
Debbie Moose is the author of cookbooks , including “ Deviled Eggs : 50 Recipes from Simple to Sassy ,” “ Buttermilk : A Savor the South Cookbook ,” “ Southern Holidays : A Savor the South Cookbook ,” and “ Carolina Catch : Cooking North Carolina Fish and Shellfish from Mountains to Coast .” She can be reached at debbiemoose . com .
SOUTH � WINTER ’ 25 � 23