There are some crowds and tours during midday when cruise ships may dock, but early morning or evening walks are the best times to explore. From restaurants to cocktail lounges to shops, everything we needed was located within walking distance. As always, the best spots are found just off the main square. Pro tip: try the cevapi if you get a chance. Similar to a kebab, it’ s the local specialty.
Hvar Island
Hvar Island.
After a few days of exploring Split, we departed for Hvar Island. A random Instagram reel put this on our radar, and we are glad it did. After an hour-long ferry ride, we landed on this breathtaking island and didn’ t want to leave. With a fortunate Airbnb booking right in the main town of Hvar near the port, everything we needed was just a short walk away. Hvar is one of those places with stone streets, old limestone buildings and exceptional cleanliness that makes you feel like you are in a movie. Everywhere you look, a fantastic photo opportunity appears.
Much like Split, you will find a small central square that becomes the heartbeat of the town. From the central square, where you will find the 17th century Cathedral of Saint Stephens, you can walk along the water or get lost in the alleys discovering new shops and restaurants. If you happen to be a fan of the Netflix show“ Somebody Feed Phil,” you may recognize a few places. Phil stopped for dinner at Konoba Menego, a great local spot, and for gelato at aRoma. You will find a line most times at aRoma, but trust me, it’ s worth the wait.
For those interested in nightlife, there is a vibrant party scene with several night clubs. We tend to be in bed before most of those parties get started. I’ d prefer an affogato by the water and some people watching.
After exploring the main town on foot, it was time for an adventure. A quick walk will lead to ATV rentals, which is a must. You can rent cars on the island too, but the ATV will get you anywhere you need on the island and other places a car cannot. Hvar is full of scenic beaches, but we believe the crown jewel is Dubovica. A few miles out of town, there is a pull-off and sign that leads down a mountain trail to one of the world’ s most beautiful beaches. It feels secluded, although there is a small beach bar and a few felines milling about as well.
This beach is the perfect place to turn off your devices and unplug. A secluded beach, clear water and a laid-back vibe is what you will find in Dubovica.
With the clear water, it was a must for us to snorkel. Around the island there are a variety of fish, sea urchins and the coolest animal we spotted— an octopus. You can get lost for hours exploring the ocean wildlife. Watch your step, though; those sea urchins have spikes.
Zarace Beach at Hvar Island.
Some other must do’ s on the island include a visit to the historic town of Stari Grad and a stop at a local winery. Stari Grad is a picturesque, sleepy town and a great option for a lunch stop. The true hidden gem of the island was the Lacman Family Winery. The guides and locals will tell you the winery to visit is Tomic Winery, but nestled on top of a mountain overlooking the crystal blue waters of the Adriatic Sea, you can enjoy a bottle of rosé and a charcuterie board as you take in the scenery from this family-owned venue. We met a great couple from Canada, had some good conversation and received some helpful travel tips.
There are a couple of other options you may consider while on the island. For one, you can rent a boat and see the island from the water. That may be one of the best ways to see Hvar. Word of warning, though: you will also have to hire a captain as they require a captain’ s license to operate a boat. This can be a pricey option but, depending on your budget, a good one. You can also find beach clubs such as Hula Hula or Carpe Diem, but like much of Europe, you will pay a premium at these spots.
Hvar has something for everyone. From Michelin star restaurants to pizza
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