and water spouts formed on
the sea 2,000 feet below us.
We counted 21 switchbacks
on this gravel road with no
guardrails.
The road to Tris Ekkli-
sies was the highlight of my
trip. After meeting Anna
at our lovely home in the
village and thanking her for
the homemade dolmades—
stuffed grape leaves—she had
made for us, we relaxed in
our very own Cretan village.
Friday morning, the Earth
goddess, Gaia, ushered in spring—just like that, as though a
switch had been turned on. The Mediterranean sun sparkled
on the sea, and a goat bleated from our rooftop. The aroma
of awakening thyme, sage and rosemary drifted in from the
mountainsides where herds of goats and sheep sang songs of
the plenty to be found on the island.
Although we stayed only a week, the incredible memories
of Crete will be with me forever. The rugged and craggy land-
scape, made soft and green by the people of Crete, is a testa-
ment to their determination to end the struggle of hardship.
With strong will and a strong back, anything is possible. This
place, the beginning of civilization, and these people, descen-
dents of the gods, are a testament to that.
The village of Tris Ekklisies.
Breakfast at the Megaron
Hotel in Heraklion.
of dance, wine and meat before the sacrifices and fasting of
Lent. The grocery was abuzz with festivities—costumed family
members, the burning of fresh lamb and the drinking of the
Cretan beverage raki or Tsikoudia, a strong spirit made from
crushed grape skins.
Although Tris Ekklisies is only an hour and a half from Her-
aklion, it takes 45 minutes to travel from Pirgos up into the
heights of the Asterousia Mountains and down to the seaside
village. The road from the mountaintop to the village is not for
the faint hearted but lends views of the Libyan Sea that are so
breathtaking, they are not soon forgotten.
George drove in front of us, leading the way, and I was so
glad he did. The wintry winds shook the Suzuki back and forth,
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