Some Basics of Buying a Saw
For performance, stability, and user safety, large and heavy is a good thing, as is ample operating space. Strong and powerful are also good, as is rigid and precise. From that perspective, in most applications cast iron is preferred to steel, steel is preferred to aluminum, aluminum is preferred to plastic, stronger plastics are preferred to cheaper more brittle plastics, etc. It’s subjective to some degree, but you get the gist.
Since alignment is critical to good performance, the ability to adjust the blade to the miter slot, and the fence to the blade are also good. When you approach a table saw in a store, try to imagine whether or not the saw would be stable when you push a piece of heavier material across the blade. Is there enough operating room in front of the blade to get the work-piece settled before it contacts the blade? Push a little on the front of the saw, if it moves easily, it will likely move when cutting if not anchored down.
It’s hard to know how powerful a saw will feel when cutting without using it; there’s more to how easily a saw cuts than its horsepower rating. If the blade isn’t cutting efficiently while you're pushing material through it, the force ends up pushing on the saw, so it has to be stable. Blade selection and alignment are key factors in how easily and accurately any saw cuts. Horsepower ratings can be misleading or vague, but you can at least check the stated nominal amperage on the motor plate, manual, specs, or elsewhere on the saw. “Amp” draw is an indication of how much power the saw draws from the electrical circuit, and is a better indicator of how much power it’ll produce during operation than HP ratings, this is not an ideal rating system, but is more effective for universal motors.
If you’re unfamiliar with the difference between a universal motor and an induction motor, think in terms of a running circular saw vs a ceiling fan: circular saws have universal motors, while fans have induction motors. There are many other variables involved with the saw’s perceived power, but that at least gives you a leg up on whatever wishful number the marketing wizards have printed on the front of the saw. If it plugs into a standard 120v outlet, it’s not mathematically feasible for the circuit to safely supply enough amperage for the motor to produce more than 2hp for long enough to matter. Any motor that’s larger than a true 2hp is best run on a 240v (220v) circuit.
Since the fence is a critical part of the cutting operation during rip cuts, check it out thoroughly. It should have easy adjustments for horizontal and vertical alignment, and should clamp down firmly on the fence rail, or have adjustments for the clamping pressure. If it sticks a little on the rail, a little wax in the right location should help it gliding nicely (never wax or lubricate where the fence clamps against the rail though). Stock miter gauges are notoriously poor, but are easier to compensate for than a bad fence by purchasing an aftermarket miter gauge or crosscut sled. Check to see if the miter slots are a standard 3/4” width. If not, then you’re on your own for accessories that fit the miter slot.
Keep in mind that many store displays are horribly adjusted and poorly setup. Don’t misjudge the saw because of the setup. If the saw is adjustable or loose, that can usually be rectified with proper setup. The Biesemeyer Commercial “T-fence” is the most heavily copied fence in the industry, and is the most common style of fence found on industrial cabinet saws. It’s heavy steel construction, ease of setup, ease of use, accuracy, and foolproof design changed the industry standard for the better.