The mules in "Park Mode" with
their heads hung over the cliff
for safety
The Canyon Ride
After matching us up with our mules (I got the dark brown
Molly, Harvey Girl - yeah), we headed out with a wrangler
at the front, and one riding drag at the back. There were
eight of us, so with the two wranglers, we were at the limit.
I appreciated how they kept the three groups of riders
together. Starting at an elevation of 6,841’, we headed
down the Bright Angel trail that started off with a couple of
long and easy switchbacks, allowing riders to get the feel
for their mule and a trial-run before negotiating the tighter
turns with the amazing drop-offs. A mile in, we met up with
the tighter switchbacks, allowing riders the first
opportunity to see mule riders both above and below them.
There were about nine good switchbacks in that section of
the trail. Riding narrower switchbacks in the Absaroka-
Beartooth Mountains had more than prepared our group
for this type of trail, but a few of the other riders, were truly
hanging on for dear life, although their mules did fine, and
eventually, they all settled down. I was truly impressed with
our first “stop and park the mules.” All of the mules almost
simultaneously turned and hung their heads over the cliff
and went into “park-mode.” I shall use that same strategy
on the switchbacks we ride in Montana.
At a mile and a half mile, there is a “Resthouse” for those
needing a bathroom break. Other Resthouses are located
at 3 ½ miles, 5 miles, and 8 ¼ miles. Our group was good,
so we continued on. The descent is quick. Just over four
miles in, the elevation drops below 4,000’ and continues
to just under 2,400’. As you head down the Canyon you
will come across a lot of hikers. They were all respectful,
stepping aside to allow the mules to pass, with many taking
pictures and videos. It made us laugh when some of them
told us we had “pretty horses.”
After riding for five miles, we stopped and dismounted at
Indian Garden for an early lunch. There is a nice shaded
picnic area, with restrooms, water for us and the horses,
and a big lunch that the park vendor flies in by helicopter.
We were given generously sized sandwiches, chips, apples
(most of us fed them to the mules), snacks and a drink.
After a 30-minute break, we hosed down our bandana’s to
cool us off as we knew the hot part of the trail was ahead
of us. It was 65 degrees at the start of the ride, but they
cautioned that it would most likely be in the high 90’s when
we got to Phantom Ranch, even in September. We had yet
to ride thru the “Devils Furnace”, sure to be warm with a lot
of heat radiating from the rock walls. One can only imagine
what it was like in late July or August.
Our wranglers continually checked to ensure we weren’t
over-heating, offering ice water they carried, even stopping
to assist a hiker that also needed cool water. Throughout
the morning, the wranglers shared information about the
geologic formations, human history, how the bridges were
built and entertained us with stories and jokes. As we
approached the Colorado River, you could see the results
of the recent monsoon rains, the river looked like chocolate
milk. As we rode along the ridge, we could see that a few
riders were anxious with the riding terrain. Once again, our
wranglers, stopped and offered cool water and a little
distraction, which seemed to calm even the most fragile
nerves.
After crossing the Colorado River, you are at the bottom and
Phantom Ranch is just another half mile. Phantom Ranch
is a pleasant retreat, set back from the many camping spots
occupied by hikers along Phantom Creek. After
dismounting our mules and gathering our belongings, we
sat in the shade, sipping ice water while the Ranch Manager
told us about Phantom Ranch, our cabins, the Canteen, meal
times and where the Shower House was located. Our cabin