We Ride Sport and Trail Magazine March 2019 | Page 28

28 / Sport and Trail Magazine

By Rob “The Hun” Morton

In the world of mounted archery, it can be daunting to get set up with the proper gear. 20 years ago the choices regarding bows, arrows and accessories were few and far between, but today we have a multitude of options – and thankfully, a wide range of prices as well.

Starting out with a budget is a huge help – most folks try archery by itself on a whim, and the mounted aspect of it is even more daunting. As a general rule to the new archer - my best suggestion is to start with some of the less expensive gear and find out if you actually like archery, mounted or otherwise.

Before we get into the technical aspects – lets talk options and why.

There are four main types of eastern style bows – three of which only really apply to the new student of the art:

Fiberglass Core

($60 -$350)

construction of the fiberglass core bows is typically a solid bar of translucent fiberglass, wood siyahs and then wrapped in decorative leather. The solid fiberglass bows are heavier than the laminate bows, but at a fraction of the cost. They are the most economical option and unfortunately, quality tends to run the gambit. Those less expensive options found on Amazon and Ebay aren't up to the quality of an Alibow or similar.

2. Laminiate ($300-$1400) – generally the laminate bows are traditional bows in shape, but built from carbon, fiberglass and wood. They are faster, lighter and are the most common choice for the modern, mounted archer.

3. Biocomposite ($400-$700) – for the history buffs, the biocomposite is the best of both worlds. It is a mix of both traditional and modern materials; they incorporate horn, sinew like the true horn bows – but also contain modern adhesives and stabilizing materials to create a functional and beautiful reproduction of the originals. Unusual to be used here in the states, but very common overseas.

4. Horn Bows ($1500+) – the most expensive and rare. True horn, sinew and wood bows made the way the originals were built. They are typically very expensive, temperamental and unless made by a competent bowyer, need a great deal of extra “care and feeding”, above and beyond your run of the mill bow.

A couple things to consider:

As an archery instructor, I tell most folks that the lighter the bow, the more practice you can do without getting tired. Draw weight literally means the amount of force it takes to draw the bow back. It's a great thing to tell folks you shoot a 60 pound bow, but it's not a lot fun after a half a dozen shots. Shooting more builds consistency, and if you're not focused on all that weight being drawn back, you have more time to focus on building constant, repeatable form. For women, I generally say start out between 20-30 pound draw weights. For men, 30-35 pound draw weights – particularly if you are just starting out with thumb draw, stick to the lower weights until your fingers are trained.

Typically, thumb draw is the preferred choice of mounted archers. If you're an archer that's interested in trying it, it's going to be the weirdest thing you've ever done. It takes time, so be patient. There are a few schools of mounted archery around the world that also use the three-finger (the “Mediterranean” draw), but generally it's up to the individual.

For the entry-level archer one of my favorite bows is the Alibow Turkish or Crimean. It's a toss up for me, but generally I like as small and handy as possible. The Turkish being 44 inches long and the Crimean at 48 inches. As a rule, shorter bows tend to be less forgiving (by “forgiving” I mean that the shorter a bow is, the more prone it is to have your shot disturbed by your hand, or form – so a longer bow is generally more “forgiving” to new archers) – hence why the Crimean pattern is likely the most common bow for mounted archery. When you first start, the possible need to toss your bow off your horse is always there – throwing a thousand dollar bow off your horse doesn't sound too great. While learning (both you and your horse) utilizing a less expensive bow is a smart way to go.

Lets say though, you want to go straight into the mid-level; three notable options stand out. The Grozer L2 Crimean ($650) is phenomenal, and on par with some of the best bow sin the world. It is a relative newcomer to the sport; it features a re-shaped grip, lighter weight and is ultimately very fast. For the traditional archers, the Grozer Biocomposites ($400-$700) also fit nicely into this category. They are a bit heavier than the laminate offerings, but are still excellent, fast and accurate bows. One of the most popular options is the Nomad ($300) – built by Alibow for Nomad Warriors Archery. A light, fast laminate and built to be a performer, the Nomad is rapidly becoming one of the bar standard bows.

And of course for the highest-end offerings, the Saluki is considered by most to be the absolute best. Light, fast, and built by hand by Lukas Novotny. A number of the top mounted archers here in the USA use Saluki bows. If you want the best of the best in the laminate bow category – the Saluki is probably the finest fusion of old world style and new age materials.

For Alibows here in the USA – either retailer typically carries a good selection. The Flying Hun specializes in more historic archery, whereas the Nomad Warriors focus on mounted archery as a sport.

http://www.theflyinghun.com

http://www.nomadwarriors.com/

Next time, we talk about quivers, arrows and accessories!

The Grózer L2 Laminate Crimean

Laminate Bow

Fiberglass Bow